I wrote a poem about all the Amazigh women I have seen and met in Morocco. I can't cut and paste here though so I will have to write it again.
An Amazigh Woman
An Amazigh woman rises on a dark morning to feed her family sustaining soup or ta'am with ta'loute
She squats on the cuisine floor to mix tissent, zit and amen to form flat rounds of bread that she kneads and pats with skill.
She stacks them in blankets to warm and rise. She carries them on her head to the clay oven where they are tended and turned over the flames.
She found her wood and carried it one her back and it is her turn to take care of the oven today.
And then she hunches down to peel, scrape, cut and chunk the season's vegetables for tagine or couscous.
She salts and spices, oils, waters and heats and leaves it to soften and sweeten.
An Amazigh woman produces party dishes without writing a list.She works with others in seamless activity. Rkia and Bidda tending tagines and cultivating couscous.
Her daughters, nieces, friends mix together the biscuit and cake things, with no sign of a recipe book. They create doughs for sponges decorated with coconut, jam or pounded coacoa.
An Amazigh woman goes to her fields to cut plants for her sheep or goats. She feeds them peelings and cores from the meals and takes their milk for her family.
An Amazigh woman weaves a pattern with needle and thread, adding sparkle and tinkle with silver sequins and keeps the pattern in her head.
An Amazigh woman creates carpets, weaving and knotting with her kin. It is her sofa at the edges of her sitting room in her mud built home.
An Amazigh woman rests in prayer, placing the sheepskin east. Her prayer is serene, even in the midst of chaos.
She is amazing.
Tuesday, 2 March 2010
Monday, 1 March 2010
Return
I was not unhappy to be attending the baby party, I was glad to be going home. There is something refreshing about movement.
I didn't say goodbye to next door. Ammar told them that I would cry but that's not quite it. I feel a bit embarrassed about farewells, I just want to go and as I have noticed the people in Merzouga do not usually say goodbye when they leave. They sort of melt away and that suits me exactly.
We got up early and Ammar fussed about in the room. It was my job to strip the bed. He will wash the sheets and pillowcases on his return. He encased the couette in its zippered plastic bag. He was right, the Cow Blanket was not equal to the couette in warmth and comfort.
The suitcase was ready and I had packed a smaller backpack - the one I had given to Ammar for his laptop, but which he had rejected for a stronger one. Anyway I gave my bigger backpack to him gladly and did not feel so burdened when this smaller one was on my back. It was so much easier to manouvre on the plane too.
I got out and waited for Ammar while he locked up. We walked briskly to the cafe where he told me not to touch the cats. He went off to find a taxi and I sat outside but couldn't resist seeing Tricky for one last time. Shrad was not there and I did not call her. One quick stroke and Ammar was calling me for the taxi. I got into my usual place in the back seat, by the door. Far less hassle getting out from that position than from the central squash. There were three of us and two in the front seat. The driver turned round to find another passenger to make up the complement of 6 but there was no one on the cobbles of the main street. He found his last passenger on the way out of Merzouga. Ammar asked him to take us to the grand taxi place for our next taxi to Er Rachidia.
The day was hot and the engine was on in the taxi and we were waiting in the back for extra passengers getting hotter. We got out and sat in the shade. I was back in my Western clothes, trousers, top and my raincoat. I had struggled back into my Doc Martin shoes that really need a shoe horn to help me get into them. They were dirty with dust. Nothing stays pristine in Merzouga for long.
We took about an hour to get to Er Rachidia and I fell asleep on the way. We had eaten bread and fig jam at home so were not hungry. At Er Rachidia we made our way to our favourite cafe. It was about 11.30. I think that cafe is called Fiesta but I can't be sure as my memory doesn't hold that sort of information for long. It's a nice clean cafe with sit on toilets and a clean wash basin. We had a lunch of a shared salad with a small plate of chips followed by a sausage and olive sandwich and more chips which we did not share. Cokes were our chosen drink.
Our next move was to the bus station to see about a CTM bus to Ouarzazate. It was going too late so it was decided that we would do what we did on my last return and that was to take a grand taxi to Tinhrir and from there get another one to Ourzazate. Again we sought the shade and I had a tonic water to cool me. We sat near a down and out who gave out an unwashed smell that I have once or twice smelt on children that have been in a class of mine. I felt sorry for the man. Ammar guessed that he was mentally ill, there are many such people wandering the streets of Morocco. Some of them look really wild and are probably homeless. There is one who wanders the streets of Merzouga, but he is no threat as he is not mad looking and he is cared for.
We waited for almost 3/4 of an hour for the taxi to get its full amount of passengers. In fact I paid for three seats as it was a longer journey. The driver stopped at the police station to get his permission to take us to Tinhrir and we were on our way with just a small but adequate amount of air coming in to cool us. This driver did not even have the handle to open the window on my side. He just turned the point around with his hand. The removal of the back window handles is a feature of Moroccan Grand taxis. You have to ask the driver for the handle. Anyway this driver was not too bothered about his taxi as it was pretty wrecked, but that didn't stop him doing 120 km per hour. The journey was more uncomfortable for Ammar as he was in the middle and the suspension was not good. I was glad when we reached Tinhrir. The cost of 3 places was 120 dirhams.
Last time we did this journey we found a weeping tree that provided shade. This tree had been badly manicured and there was no shade at all. We went to the cafe and sat on the terrace under the moving shade of a tall pine tree. So hot for this time of year. We spent our time observing flirting turtle doves and Ammar going to see whether the passengers were coming. Eventually I decided to buy the space for four passengers and the driver agreed to go with one other passenger in the front. This taxi was far nicer and more comfortable and the driver had the necessary window winder. Again it was a speedy journey and Ammar had asked him to take us to La Vallee, the hotel we usually use, which is on the other side of the Oued Ourzazate.
I think we got there around 7. So nice not to get the extra taxi needed to get to the other side of the river. The river was quite full and had recently flooded. There were other floods in Morocco too, not good for houses made of mud. As a result of the flash flood in Merzouga in 2006 the houses there are being built with stone foundations and in some cases with clay or concrete bricks. But the mud building still continues as its cheap and easy to do.
The night at La Vallee was comfortable. We had to wake early as Youssef the manager had told us that the bus for Marrakech was leaving at 8. Just time for breakfast then. Forget about a shower. When we got to the CTM station we saw that a bus also left at 11.30, but it was better to get to Marrakech earlier. As we were waiting we noticed an older couple with backpacks. From their speech I guessed they were German or Dutch. I got talking to the woman and found they were Norwegian and had been in Morocco for about a week and were flying back on Saturday on the once a week flight from Oslo.
The woman was a teacher and was on her half term. Her husband had been a teacher but was working with computers. Its amazing how much you can learn from a short conversation. We discussed children's behaviour and it seems that the children of Norway are no different from the ones coming into schools in England, unable to talk or walk even ( I think that was a bit of a joke). Anyway children have changed in their behaviour from when I first began teaching. Also I didn't know that Norway was not in the EC. It has an economy based on North Sea Oil and Gas and that is why there is not much unemployment there and the people earn healthy salaries. But it still takes two to buy a house.
That conversation sort of fizzled out and it was time to get on the bus. The Atlas mountains had snow on their peaks and looked magnificent. I wanted a photo to show them but the bus was moving too quickly and the moment passed. But more moments came and I got my photos - well Ammar did. We stopped for lunch and shared a small tagine. There were a few cafes with tagines and a barbecue outside. The tagine were cooking in the traditional way, over a small fire of charcoal.
We wandered into a couple of shops after as I wanted to find a pair of earrings but saw nothing special. One shopkeeper tried his best to keep me there saying 'The bus stays here for 25 minutes' but just then we heard the horn and knew that the 25 minutes was up.
In Marrakech the first thing to do was to get a card for Ammar's phone so that he could ring the Riad Marana, where I wanted to stay again. We were in luck. Our taxi took us to the square which was pretty crowded. It was so hot, I had discarded my coat at the bus station in Ouarzazate.
This time we got the room I wanted. It was called Scherazade and had a simple 4 poster bed. It was heavenly. The bed had two long pieces of white cloth draped over the grid on the top and on the white counterpane there were two huge matching white pillows and artfully arranged was a thin red rug.
The riad was suffused with the smell of incense and we enjoyed the atmosphere as we sat in the courtyard drinking tea and eating biscuits.
A riad is such a lovely place to stay in Morocco. Riad Marana is typical of the smaller and less expensive ones. We have stayed in three different ones now, Riad Todra in Marrakech, which is no longer functioning and another at the medina in Essaouiara which didn't even have a name when we stayed there.
I am listening to one of two cds I bought for 15 dirhams each in the square Djemma El Fna. Its the second album of Tinariwen. Earlier I was playing the Beldi music I bought when I first came here. It plays really well on my equipment but was stuttering on Ammar's player. I think these cds are copies. The other one is the new one by Sami Yusuf.
So we had time to shower and then to wander the square and to wind down from our long journey.
We had dinner in one of the small cafes at the side of the square. I had tangia, but I didn't enjoy it much. The chips were really good though A tangia is a meat dish that has been cooked in a clay pot of the same name for a very long time, usually in the ashes of the fuel that heats an hammam.. The first tangia I had was pretty good but rather salty, this one was not well cooked as the meat in the first one I ate seemed to melt in my mouth.
There were parts of the medina that we hadn't visited before so we ambled along looking for a musical instrument seller to buy one of those oboe type instruments that the snake charmers in the square play to attract customers. We found one and haggled the price, eventually getting it down to 150 dirhams I think. Anyway I bought it and we had fun with the seller. He demonstrated how to play it. The mouthpiece was fixed to the centre of a 1p coin.It's not an easy instrument to play as it requires a lot of breath and co-ordination to get the notes from the holes. It's a bit like a recorder too as it's made of wood and is a very simple instrument.
I also bought some more scarves at the price of 20 dirhams each as they were in a sale. There were plenty of them jumbled together in a couple of boxes in a side street. We passed a man selling a plastic moustache and glasses which blew out two tubes of plastic whilst making a piercing whistle. We looked and laughed and went on but later we got one for Ayoub's amusement.
There were plenty of people in the square eating, wandering, riding bicycles and mobettes, gathering in circles around musicians and acrobats and storytellers.The drumming was my favourite thing, I just love the rhythms of different players together.
At bedtime we untied the curtains round the bed and enclosed ourselves in a little private world. The bed itself was so comfy that when I woke up for breakfast on Saturday I didn't want to leave it.
Breakfast was at 9. We were alone in the courtyard where we were entertained by a little rust and dark blue bird that flew in and ate some of our crumbs. I had cake and coffee with milk and French bread with jam. Then the waiter brought us what I thought was harcha but when we tasted it Ammar said it was something different called Bot Bot ( or something like that). It was a little round piece of bread really.Pancakes were also served but I couldn't manage one even.
We paid and got a refund of 100 dirhams as we had stayed before. The price was thus 500 dirhams. Our plan was to visit the ruined Bahia Palace and to leave our luggage at the riad. The palace was not too far to walk and a policeman put us on the right road after a man offered to take us there ( for a price of course).
Ammar didn't have to pay entry to the palace but I paid 10 dirhams. It was a total ruin and had been restored in places with cold concrete not very appealing to the eye. It must have been magnificent when it was first built but the ruler died and of course the one who succeeded him wanted his own palace. In one place there was still some zillij left and Ammar took a photo.
We passed a tree with orange blossom on it which was such a lovely smell in this sad ruin. There were a few red roses growing but I couldn't get down to smell them as they were in a sunken garden mostly filled with orange trees and wild yellow and orange flowers and swaying grass. There was a strong breeze which alieviated the sun's strength.
I decided not to take home some delicious biscuits I had bought and gave them to Ammar to give away. I have eaten too many cakes and need to have a rest from them. The patisseries sell their cakes and buscuits by weight and package them in a decorative box. I have my biscuits from the baby party to eat.
Lunch was a poor affair. My omelette was spoiled by bits of egg shell and in one piece a large chunk of it. I should have complained earlier but it was so hard to get the waiter's eye. Anyway the chips made up for the omelette. It was a cheese ommelette - with a piece of laughing cow - I bet the owners were laughing about that too. But Morocco is not England and food is different.
Our next goal was to find a place for Ammar to stay as the riad was too expensive for just one person. We found the Hotel Ali, which Petra, Michael's friend had recommended. They had a room for 200 dirhams with breakfast included but they wouldn't let me accompany Ammar to the room. He was pleased with it and left his bag there.
We got a petit taxi to the airport for 40 dirhams, one driver wanted 50. The drivers charge more than they are supposed to and hide their meters. In the end he got 37 dirhams as we didn't have enough change. Ammar waited in the check in queue with me. Once again my suitcase was under 15kg, so I breathed a sigh of relief. I left Ammar by the entry to the departure area and joined the women's queue. A policewoman frisked me around the middle and let me go.
At the departure lounge I walked through the perfume section but didn't find anything I wanted. I really don't need perfume as I have a drawerful at home.I spotted an icecream seller and so bought one at an inflated price but it was nice after the heat of the Marrakech streets. I also got a bottle of water for the plane and a Snickers bar.
The plane was a bit late and I was anxious to know which departure gate we would go to. It was gate 3 and we were whisked through. I was talking to a young man in the queue from Morocco. He was studying linguistics at Exeter University and was interesting to chat to while we waited to show our boarding passes again.
And so the plane was boarded, it flew to Bristol passing an amazing sunset, which seemed to last for half and hour and with an unexpected hard landing I was home on English concrete.
I didn't say goodbye to next door. Ammar told them that I would cry but that's not quite it. I feel a bit embarrassed about farewells, I just want to go and as I have noticed the people in Merzouga do not usually say goodbye when they leave. They sort of melt away and that suits me exactly.
We got up early and Ammar fussed about in the room. It was my job to strip the bed. He will wash the sheets and pillowcases on his return. He encased the couette in its zippered plastic bag. He was right, the Cow Blanket was not equal to the couette in warmth and comfort.
The suitcase was ready and I had packed a smaller backpack - the one I had given to Ammar for his laptop, but which he had rejected for a stronger one. Anyway I gave my bigger backpack to him gladly and did not feel so burdened when this smaller one was on my back. It was so much easier to manouvre on the plane too.
I got out and waited for Ammar while he locked up. We walked briskly to the cafe where he told me not to touch the cats. He went off to find a taxi and I sat outside but couldn't resist seeing Tricky for one last time. Shrad was not there and I did not call her. One quick stroke and Ammar was calling me for the taxi. I got into my usual place in the back seat, by the door. Far less hassle getting out from that position than from the central squash. There were three of us and two in the front seat. The driver turned round to find another passenger to make up the complement of 6 but there was no one on the cobbles of the main street. He found his last passenger on the way out of Merzouga. Ammar asked him to take us to the grand taxi place for our next taxi to Er Rachidia.
The day was hot and the engine was on in the taxi and we were waiting in the back for extra passengers getting hotter. We got out and sat in the shade. I was back in my Western clothes, trousers, top and my raincoat. I had struggled back into my Doc Martin shoes that really need a shoe horn to help me get into them. They were dirty with dust. Nothing stays pristine in Merzouga for long.
We took about an hour to get to Er Rachidia and I fell asleep on the way. We had eaten bread and fig jam at home so were not hungry. At Er Rachidia we made our way to our favourite cafe. It was about 11.30. I think that cafe is called Fiesta but I can't be sure as my memory doesn't hold that sort of information for long. It's a nice clean cafe with sit on toilets and a clean wash basin. We had a lunch of a shared salad with a small plate of chips followed by a sausage and olive sandwich and more chips which we did not share. Cokes were our chosen drink.
Our next move was to the bus station to see about a CTM bus to Ouarzazate. It was going too late so it was decided that we would do what we did on my last return and that was to take a grand taxi to Tinhrir and from there get another one to Ourzazate. Again we sought the shade and I had a tonic water to cool me. We sat near a down and out who gave out an unwashed smell that I have once or twice smelt on children that have been in a class of mine. I felt sorry for the man. Ammar guessed that he was mentally ill, there are many such people wandering the streets of Morocco. Some of them look really wild and are probably homeless. There is one who wanders the streets of Merzouga, but he is no threat as he is not mad looking and he is cared for.
We waited for almost 3/4 of an hour for the taxi to get its full amount of passengers. In fact I paid for three seats as it was a longer journey. The driver stopped at the police station to get his permission to take us to Tinhrir and we were on our way with just a small but adequate amount of air coming in to cool us. This driver did not even have the handle to open the window on my side. He just turned the point around with his hand. The removal of the back window handles is a feature of Moroccan Grand taxis. You have to ask the driver for the handle. Anyway this driver was not too bothered about his taxi as it was pretty wrecked, but that didn't stop him doing 120 km per hour. The journey was more uncomfortable for Ammar as he was in the middle and the suspension was not good. I was glad when we reached Tinhrir. The cost of 3 places was 120 dirhams.
Last time we did this journey we found a weeping tree that provided shade. This tree had been badly manicured and there was no shade at all. We went to the cafe and sat on the terrace under the moving shade of a tall pine tree. So hot for this time of year. We spent our time observing flirting turtle doves and Ammar going to see whether the passengers were coming. Eventually I decided to buy the space for four passengers and the driver agreed to go with one other passenger in the front. This taxi was far nicer and more comfortable and the driver had the necessary window winder. Again it was a speedy journey and Ammar had asked him to take us to La Vallee, the hotel we usually use, which is on the other side of the Oued Ourzazate.
I think we got there around 7. So nice not to get the extra taxi needed to get to the other side of the river. The river was quite full and had recently flooded. There were other floods in Morocco too, not good for houses made of mud. As a result of the flash flood in Merzouga in 2006 the houses there are being built with stone foundations and in some cases with clay or concrete bricks. But the mud building still continues as its cheap and easy to do.
The night at La Vallee was comfortable. We had to wake early as Youssef the manager had told us that the bus for Marrakech was leaving at 8. Just time for breakfast then. Forget about a shower. When we got to the CTM station we saw that a bus also left at 11.30, but it was better to get to Marrakech earlier. As we were waiting we noticed an older couple with backpacks. From their speech I guessed they were German or Dutch. I got talking to the woman and found they were Norwegian and had been in Morocco for about a week and were flying back on Saturday on the once a week flight from Oslo.
That conversation sort of fizzled out and it was time to get on the bus. The Atlas mountains had snow on their peaks and looked magnificent. I wanted a photo to show them but the bus was moving too quickly and the moment passed. But more moments came and I got my photos - well Ammar did. We stopped for lunch and shared a small tagine. There were a few cafes with tagines and a barbecue outside. The tagine were cooking in the traditional way, over a small fire of charcoal.
We wandered into a couple of shops after as I wanted to find a pair of earrings but saw nothing special. One shopkeeper tried his best to keep me there saying 'The bus stays here for 25 minutes' but just then we heard the horn and knew that the 25 minutes was up.
In Marrakech the first thing to do was to get a card for Ammar's phone so that he could ring the Riad Marana, where I wanted to stay again. We were in luck. Our taxi took us to the square which was pretty crowded. It was so hot, I had discarded my coat at the bus station in Ouarzazate.
This time we got the room I wanted. It was called Scherazade and had a simple 4 poster bed. It was heavenly. The bed had two long pieces of white cloth draped over the grid on the top and on the white counterpane there were two huge matching white pillows and artfully arranged was a thin red rug.
The riad was suffused with the smell of incense and we enjoyed the atmosphere as we sat in the courtyard drinking tea and eating biscuits.
A riad is such a lovely place to stay in Morocco. Riad Marana is typical of the smaller and less expensive ones. We have stayed in three different ones now, Riad Todra in Marrakech, which is no longer functioning and another at the medina in Essaouiara which didn't even have a name when we stayed there.
I am listening to one of two cds I bought for 15 dirhams each in the square Djemma El Fna. Its the second album of Tinariwen. Earlier I was playing the Beldi music I bought when I first came here. It plays really well on my equipment but was stuttering on Ammar's player. I think these cds are copies. The other one is the new one by Sami Yusuf.
So we had time to shower and then to wander the square and to wind down from our long journey.
We had dinner in one of the small cafes at the side of the square. I had tangia, but I didn't enjoy it much. The chips were really good though A tangia is a meat dish that has been cooked in a clay pot of the same name for a very long time, usually in the ashes of the fuel that heats an hammam.. The first tangia I had was pretty good but rather salty, this one was not well cooked as the meat in the first one I ate seemed to melt in my mouth.
There were parts of the medina that we hadn't visited before so we ambled along looking for a musical instrument seller to buy one of those oboe type instruments that the snake charmers in the square play to attract customers. We found one and haggled the price, eventually getting it down to 150 dirhams I think. Anyway I bought it and we had fun with the seller. He demonstrated how to play it. The mouthpiece was fixed to the centre of a 1p coin.It's not an easy instrument to play as it requires a lot of breath and co-ordination to get the notes from the holes. It's a bit like a recorder too as it's made of wood and is a very simple instrument.
I also bought some more scarves at the price of 20 dirhams each as they were in a sale. There were plenty of them jumbled together in a couple of boxes in a side street. We passed a man selling a plastic moustache and glasses which blew out two tubes of plastic whilst making a piercing whistle. We looked and laughed and went on but later we got one for Ayoub's amusement.
There were plenty of people in the square eating, wandering, riding bicycles and mobettes, gathering in circles around musicians and acrobats and storytellers.The drumming was my favourite thing, I just love the rhythms of different players together.
At bedtime we untied the curtains round the bed and enclosed ourselves in a little private world. The bed itself was so comfy that when I woke up for breakfast on Saturday I didn't want to leave it.
Breakfast was at 9. We were alone in the courtyard where we were entertained by a little rust and dark blue bird that flew in and ate some of our crumbs. I had cake and coffee with milk and French bread with jam. Then the waiter brought us what I thought was harcha but when we tasted it Ammar said it was something different called Bot Bot ( or something like that). It was a little round piece of bread really.Pancakes were also served but I couldn't manage one even.
We paid and got a refund of 100 dirhams as we had stayed before. The price was thus 500 dirhams. Our plan was to visit the ruined Bahia Palace and to leave our luggage at the riad. The palace was not too far to walk and a policeman put us on the right road after a man offered to take us there ( for a price of course).
Ammar didn't have to pay entry to the palace but I paid 10 dirhams. It was a total ruin and had been restored in places with cold concrete not very appealing to the eye. It must have been magnificent when it was first built but the ruler died and of course the one who succeeded him wanted his own palace. In one place there was still some zillij left and Ammar took a photo.
We passed a tree with orange blossom on it which was such a lovely smell in this sad ruin. There were a few red roses growing but I couldn't get down to smell them as they were in a sunken garden mostly filled with orange trees and wild yellow and orange flowers and swaying grass. There was a strong breeze which alieviated the sun's strength.
I decided not to take home some delicious biscuits I had bought and gave them to Ammar to give away. I have eaten too many cakes and need to have a rest from them. The patisseries sell their cakes and buscuits by weight and package them in a decorative box. I have my biscuits from the baby party to eat.
Lunch was a poor affair. My omelette was spoiled by bits of egg shell and in one piece a large chunk of it. I should have complained earlier but it was so hard to get the waiter's eye. Anyway the chips made up for the omelette. It was a cheese ommelette - with a piece of laughing cow - I bet the owners were laughing about that too. But Morocco is not England and food is different.
We got a petit taxi to the airport for 40 dirhams, one driver wanted 50. The drivers charge more than they are supposed to and hide their meters. In the end he got 37 dirhams as we didn't have enough change. Ammar waited in the check in queue with me. Once again my suitcase was under 15kg, so I breathed a sigh of relief. I left Ammar by the entry to the departure area and joined the women's queue. A policewoman frisked me around the middle and let me go.
At the departure lounge I walked through the perfume section but didn't find anything I wanted. I really don't need perfume as I have a drawerful at home.I spotted an icecream seller and so bought one at an inflated price but it was nice after the heat of the Marrakech streets. I also got a bottle of water for the plane and a Snickers bar.
The plane was a bit late and I was anxious to know which departure gate we would go to. It was gate 3 and we were whisked through. I was talking to a young man in the queue from Morocco. He was studying linguistics at Exeter University and was interesting to chat to while we waited to show our boarding passes again.
And so the plane was boarded, it flew to Bristol passing an amazing sunset, which seemed to last for half and hour and with an unexpected hard landing I was home on English concrete.
Wednesday, 24 February 2010
A Dongle
Ammar now has a dongle so that he can communicate from home instead of going to the net and using the dirty computers there.We went to Rissani yesterday and did some shopping. We got some baby clothes,a baby duvet, perfume for Aicha, threads for my family shawl, a dongle and two cables and a scarf with fluffy balls on it. We had our lunch at Rissani, the same as the other day. Ah also I got to print out my boarding pass. I was getting a bit worried that I wasn't going to be able to do this as I had tried twice at Merzouga. So nice to be able to do this blog using the dongle. What a fantastic invention.
Today we went to see the new baby, who still hasn't got a name, but he may be called Marwan. The baby party has been postponed until Friday as some people couldn't come on Wednesday. We won't be going as we will be travelling to Marrakech then. We will go to Ourzazate tomorrow and stay at La Vallee for one night.
Another thing did yesterday was to buy a jellaba, which was made for me. It cost 400 dirhams, which is about £33. A jellaba is an outer garment that has a hood. Men have them too but they are not so decorative. Mine is light green with some embroidery on it and trimmings all made by hand to match the cloth. There is a tassel on the hood which is made of beads.The tailor who made it is trying to be more modern in his approach to tailoring. Ammar got his jellaba from the same tailor.
Something nasty to report. I think I have bites from cat fleas. I have two on my face and two on my left leg. They are round and red and do not bleed. They feel very hard. I must have caught them from Shrad as she got to my face a few times. I will go to the chemist when I get home and get something to get rid of them.
Don't think I wrote in here about my bee sting. I got it one day washing clothes in the courtyard which is a place that Zaid's bees can reach. Something got on my face and I wiped it away, unfortunately it was a bee and it stung me. The pain came straight away and got worse. Then I got swelling and that got worse and lasted for about 4 days. All is fine now, just a little scab there now.
The weather is getting hotter. I was hoping to wear my jellaba today but it would have been too hot.
We had a meal at an auberge the other night. Its one of the best auberges in Merzouga and is called Riad Nezha. They had cous cous but it was too expensive at 80 dirhams each. We asked if we could have chips and an omelette with onions and tomatoes.They obliged. I couldn't eat any of the fruit after as I was so full. In fact we left some of the omelette. It is not an omelette as we know it in England as it is not folded over at the end of cooking but stays in the tagine.
Back to the preparations for the baby party. Khadija, Zaid's daughter, was starting to make some biscuits. They had made some round ones earlier and I was given a parcel of them wrapped in cellophane and tied with a bow. I will eat them at home. We visited Youssef's house on the way home and there was also some biscuit/cake making going on. This was different though and something that I had never seen before. Hyatt made small squares from the dough and then wrapped 3 squares around a small stick of bamboo. The squares were put on corner to corner. Then she lowered them into a pan of hot oil to fry - bamboo stick and all. A photo opportunity was missed but I want to go there again to see if I can take a photo of the finished biscuits/cakes. I think the term sweetmeats is more appropriate.
Today we went to see the new baby, who still hasn't got a name, but he may be called Marwan. The baby party has been postponed until Friday as some people couldn't come on Wednesday. We won't be going as we will be travelling to Marrakech then. We will go to Ourzazate tomorrow and stay at La Vallee for one night.
Another thing did yesterday was to buy a jellaba, which was made for me. It cost 400 dirhams, which is about £33. A jellaba is an outer garment that has a hood. Men have them too but they are not so decorative. Mine is light green with some embroidery on it and trimmings all made by hand to match the cloth. There is a tassel on the hood which is made of beads.The tailor who made it is trying to be more modern in his approach to tailoring. Ammar got his jellaba from the same tailor.
Something nasty to report. I think I have bites from cat fleas. I have two on my face and two on my left leg. They are round and red and do not bleed. They feel very hard. I must have caught them from Shrad as she got to my face a few times. I will go to the chemist when I get home and get something to get rid of them.
Don't think I wrote in here about my bee sting. I got it one day washing clothes in the courtyard which is a place that Zaid's bees can reach. Something got on my face and I wiped it away, unfortunately it was a bee and it stung me. The pain came straight away and got worse. Then I got swelling and that got worse and lasted for about 4 days. All is fine now, just a little scab there now.
The weather is getting hotter. I was hoping to wear my jellaba today but it would have been too hot.
We had a meal at an auberge the other night. Its one of the best auberges in Merzouga and is called Riad Nezha. They had cous cous but it was too expensive at 80 dirhams each. We asked if we could have chips and an omelette with onions and tomatoes.They obliged. I couldn't eat any of the fruit after as I was so full. In fact we left some of the omelette. It is not an omelette as we know it in England as it is not folded over at the end of cooking but stays in the tagine.
Back to the preparations for the baby party. Khadija, Zaid's daughter, was starting to make some biscuits. They had made some round ones earlier and I was given a parcel of them wrapped in cellophane and tied with a bow. I will eat them at home. We visited Youssef's house on the way home and there was also some biscuit/cake making going on. This was different though and something that I had never seen before. Hyatt made small squares from the dough and then wrapped 3 squares around a small stick of bamboo. The squares were put on corner to corner. Then she lowered them into a pan of hot oil to fry - bamboo stick and all. A photo opportunity was missed but I want to go there again to see if I can take a photo of the finished biscuits/cakes. I think the term sweetmeats is more appropriate.
Sunday, 21 February 2010
A new Ouadirou
I haven't been on here for a while as we went to Tafraoute, where it was very windy. We stayed for three nights from Sunday to Wednesday. The new brides are fitting in well. Youssef the student was there - he cameon the bus with us. The journey takes about 3 and a half hours across the desert. There are a few isolated houses on the way and they get their water from a well. The bus driver is a sort of shopping service and when he nears the village he goesto different houses to deliver stuff. A sheep was lifted down from the roof of the bus at one house. Must have had a bumpy ride. We made a toilet stop, which was very welcome.
Youssef is learning English at university in Meknes, but now he has finished his exams he has come home for about three weeks. On arrival he immediately began helping with the goats, which were being put into their night quarters. His brother Idir was there too. He took a test to become a teacher and is waiting for the results. I hope he gets a job.
On the first day I sat outside on a plastic patio chair with Fatima, Ammar's sister. It was hot there so we moved to the shade. There were plenty of baby goats to watch jumping from stone to stone. I also looked into the smoky oven - really a small room with a clay oven inside where the bread is baked. Here they put the dough onto a metal plate covered with hot stones. Despite a chimney in the roof and two holes in the wall it's still very smoky in there.
Zhour,one of Fatima's three daughters, was using her knitting machine and she made one side of a jumper. I hope I will be in Morocco for her wedding to her cousin Hamid in May. I call him the original Hamid as he was from his mother's first family and in her second marriage she called another son Hamid.
Fatima's grandson Mubarack came with his mum but he is still wary of strangers (me). We gave him some bubbles and he liked them.
When we came back to Rissani we had a long wait for transport to Merzouga, long enough to buy some yogurts, another 5 litres of water, 9 boxes of incense cones - all different aromas and to meet Mohamed, another teacher. We had lunch at the Panorama cafe and while I was waiting for Ammar to find a tailors I started on the chips. He came back and said that he had met Ali his nephew outside the hospital, where his pregnant wife Aisha, had gone earlier. By the time we left Rissani she had given birth to a boy.
After lunch we went to the tailor where I ordered a jellaba to be made. It should beready by Wednesday and I can wear it to the baby party. We visited the new parents and baby at Ali's father's house in Merzouga. The baby was lovely and I got to hold him. I saw him being wrapped in the traditional way in a white cloth held in place by a woollen rope with a cowrie shell attached to keep away the evil eye. His head was also covered with a white cloth fixed inplace with a small white scarf. Aicha looked well and happy. Fatima and Mohamed have come from Arghbalou to help with the catering.
There will be a baby party on Wednesday and we will learn the name of the baby.
Youssef is learning English at university in Meknes, but now he has finished his exams he has come home for about three weeks. On arrival he immediately began helping with the goats, which were being put into their night quarters. His brother Idir was there too. He took a test to become a teacher and is waiting for the results. I hope he gets a job.
On the first day I sat outside on a plastic patio chair with Fatima, Ammar's sister. It was hot there so we moved to the shade. There were plenty of baby goats to watch jumping from stone to stone. I also looked into the smoky oven - really a small room with a clay oven inside where the bread is baked. Here they put the dough onto a metal plate covered with hot stones. Despite a chimney in the roof and two holes in the wall it's still very smoky in there.
Zhour,one of Fatima's three daughters, was using her knitting machine and she made one side of a jumper. I hope I will be in Morocco for her wedding to her cousin Hamid in May. I call him the original Hamid as he was from his mother's first family and in her second marriage she called another son Hamid.
Fatima's grandson Mubarack came with his mum but he is still wary of strangers (me). We gave him some bubbles and he liked them.
When we came back to Rissani we had a long wait for transport to Merzouga, long enough to buy some yogurts, another 5 litres of water, 9 boxes of incense cones - all different aromas and to meet Mohamed, another teacher. We had lunch at the Panorama cafe and while I was waiting for Ammar to find a tailors I started on the chips. He came back and said that he had met Ali his nephew outside the hospital, where his pregnant wife Aisha, had gone earlier. By the time we left Rissani she had given birth to a boy.
After lunch we went to the tailor where I ordered a jellaba to be made. It should beready by Wednesday and I can wear it to the baby party. We visited the new parents and baby at Ali's father's house in Merzouga. The baby was lovely and I got to hold him. I saw him being wrapped in the traditional way in a white cloth held in place by a woollen rope with a cowrie shell attached to keep away the evil eye. His head was also covered with a white cloth fixed inplace with a small white scarf. Aicha looked well and happy. Fatima and Mohamed have come from Arghbalou to help with the catering.
There will be a baby party on Wednesday and we will learn the name of the baby.
Friday, 12 February 2010
New kittens
Tricky has had her kittens but I don't know how many. She is in the place in the cafe where she had the previous two sets. So that has made my day. I saw her and one kitten tail so I will just have to be patient.
Nothing else to report really. The day is a bit cloudy. We had lunch at Ammar's nephew Youssef's place, which was tagine and a bowl of couscous from a neighbour. Ammar wore his new jellaba, which was bought from the tailor's shop in Merzouga. The shop has only been here for about 2 months. The owner is very nice and has some lovely clothes. I would like to have a jellaba made for me so I will look for cloth when we next go to Rissani.
This computer is not the easiest to use. The keys keep getting stuck. I tried to get to my virginmedia email today but couldn't.
Now to go back to the cafe and to see Shrad and do some more sudoku.
Nothing else to report really. The day is a bit cloudy. We had lunch at Ammar's nephew Youssef's place, which was tagine and a bowl of couscous from a neighbour. Ammar wore his new jellaba, which was bought from the tailor's shop in Merzouga. The shop has only been here for about 2 months. The owner is very nice and has some lovely clothes. I would like to have a jellaba made for me so I will look for cloth when we next go to Rissani.
This computer is not the easiest to use. The keys keep getting stuck. I tried to get to my virginmedia email today but couldn't.
Now to go back to the cafe and to see Shrad and do some more sudoku.
Wednesday, 10 February 2010
Parties
Haven't been here for a few days as other things took over. The party last Saturday was a success. In the morning the girls started making cakes. First they made a bucketful of biscuits and then some sponge cake. The biscuits were proer ones as they were cooked twice.
Khadija from Erfoud made the yogurt sponge cake with the help of her cousin Khadija from Merzouga. In this area they mix all of the wet ingredients first with their right hand and then add the dry ones. The sponge mixture was poured into a round cake tin and baked in a very simple gas oven. At no time did I see anyone looking at a recipe book.
Meanwhile Rkia was busy cleaning the chickens and Zhour was washing some clothes. All in the same room. In another room Zaid, Youssef and Mohamed were making bee boxes. There is no such thing as a garden shed or workshop at residences. Later Rkia and her friend Biddah were making the couscous and tagines in the cuisine or kitchen. Guests began to arrive later in the afternoon and the women were served their food in the best room after the men had eaten.
But before the couscous and tagine there was tea, caékes, biscuits and nuts. The chicken went into the couscous and lots of beef went with the tagine. We couldn't have music as one of Ammar's sister in laws had had a bereavement.
It was a good visa wedding party and the party poppers were well received, especiqlly by the young women in the family. We took lots of photos. I wore my pink caftan with the sequined scarf and my pink shoes. Some others wore their caftans for a while.
The following day we had another walk to the lake with Rkia - Ammar's sister, Ammar and Mohamed her sons and Khadija and Asma her daughters. Youssef from Agadir had also come to Merzouga and so to the party. He had come to get a family book as he had recently married a French woman. He was on the walk too. It was a sunny walk and hot too so I was glad of my shawl which kept the sun off my head. Khowla came too and for a 4 year old she was a good walker and never complained once.
The lake was very calm and we could see flamingoes in the distance and hear the honking of geese. We sat for a rest and ate some orange and biscuits and drank water while mating dragonflies drifted past. On the way back we encountered a few darting lizards and were followed by a lone yellow butterfly.
Youssef and Ammar were still at the lake but when they caught up they told us that they had seen a snake, which Ammar identified as a cobra.
Yesterday we went to a baby party at Rkia's family home. The baby was born on the day of our first lake walk so he was 7 days old. He has been given the name Hamid. He was with his mother in a small room which was lined with older Berber women along two of the walls. Whenever a woman came into the room she greeted everyone individually and a few said bonjour to me. Later Khadija came to take me outside so that I could have an early lunch with two French women Beatrice and Mary. We sat by the swimming pool and ate our couscous and tagine. A cat came along and had a drink from the pool but wouldn't come to me.
In the evening we had a meal at our favourite auberge La Petit Prince where we ate a plate of chips and an omelette with Youssef from Agadir. Then I asked if we could have some drumming so Ammar, our waiter Said and another guy called Mohamed played some tam tams. I love this sort of drumming. I made a small video of them.
The third party was a wedding, which was taking place at the end of the main street. We went along tonight as we could hear some traditional music. Soon after we arrived a group of 4 men stqrting playing their tambours and they were joined by three women to do ahidous - which is a slowish dance done at weddings where the men play tambours and sing and the women reply in song to the song of the men. This was done on the street with a crowd looking on. But there was no sign of the bride or groom. This was the third and last day of the wedding.
I somehow don't think that we will apply for the visa this time as Ammar has some marks on his face and this is not acceptable for the biometric photo which has to be taken. So many hoops to jump through.
We have planned to visit Ammar's sister Fatima on Sunday and will return on Wednesday. She lives in a straggling village not accessible by tarmac road. We will go in a little bus, usually a Mercedes; and the journey will take about 3 hours. The village is called Tafraoute and has only recently been connected to mains electricity and to the mobile phone.
Time to go now as dinner will soon be served. I will add photos later.
Khadija from Erfoud made the yogurt sponge cake with the help of her cousin Khadija from Merzouga. In this area they mix all of the wet ingredients first with their right hand and then add the dry ones. The sponge mixture was poured into a round cake tin and baked in a very simple gas oven. At no time did I see anyone looking at a recipe book.
Meanwhile Rkia was busy cleaning the chickens and Zhour was washing some clothes. All in the same room. In another room Zaid, Youssef and Mohamed were making bee boxes. There is no such thing as a garden shed or workshop at residences. Later Rkia and her friend Biddah were making the couscous and tagines in the cuisine or kitchen. Guests began to arrive later in the afternoon and the women were served their food in the best room after the men had eaten.
But before the couscous and tagine there was tea, caékes, biscuits and nuts. The chicken went into the couscous and lots of beef went with the tagine. We couldn't have music as one of Ammar's sister in laws had had a bereavement.
It was a good visa wedding party and the party poppers were well received, especiqlly by the young women in the family. We took lots of photos. I wore my pink caftan with the sequined scarf and my pink shoes. Some others wore their caftans for a while.
The following day we had another walk to the lake with Rkia - Ammar's sister, Ammar and Mohamed her sons and Khadija and Asma her daughters. Youssef from Agadir had also come to Merzouga and so to the party. He had come to get a family book as he had recently married a French woman. He was on the walk too. It was a sunny walk and hot too so I was glad of my shawl which kept the sun off my head. Khowla came too and for a 4 year old she was a good walker and never complained once.
The lake was very calm and we could see flamingoes in the distance and hear the honking of geese. We sat for a rest and ate some orange and biscuits and drank water while mating dragonflies drifted past. On the way back we encountered a few darting lizards and were followed by a lone yellow butterfly.
Youssef and Ammar were still at the lake but when they caught up they told us that they had seen a snake, which Ammar identified as a cobra.
Yesterday we went to a baby party at Rkia's family home. The baby was born on the day of our first lake walk so he was 7 days old. He has been given the name Hamid. He was with his mother in a small room which was lined with older Berber women along two of the walls. Whenever a woman came into the room she greeted everyone individually and a few said bonjour to me. Later Khadija came to take me outside so that I could have an early lunch with two French women Beatrice and Mary. We sat by the swimming pool and ate our couscous and tagine. A cat came along and had a drink from the pool but wouldn't come to me.
In the evening we had a meal at our favourite auberge La Petit Prince where we ate a plate of chips and an omelette with Youssef from Agadir. Then I asked if we could have some drumming so Ammar, our waiter Said and another guy called Mohamed played some tam tams. I love this sort of drumming. I made a small video of them.
The third party was a wedding, which was taking place at the end of the main street. We went along tonight as we could hear some traditional music. Soon after we arrived a group of 4 men stqrting playing their tambours and they were joined by three women to do ahidous - which is a slowish dance done at weddings where the men play tambours and sing and the women reply in song to the song of the men. This was done on the street with a crowd looking on. But there was no sign of the bride or groom. This was the third and last day of the wedding.
I somehow don't think that we will apply for the visa this time as Ammar has some marks on his face and this is not acceptable for the biometric photo which has to be taken. So many hoops to jump through.
We have planned to visit Ammar's sister Fatima on Sunday and will return on Wednesday. She lives in a straggling village not accessible by tarmac road. We will go in a little bus, usually a Mercedes; and the journey will take about 3 hours. The village is called Tafraoute and has only recently been connected to mains electricity and to the mobile phone.
Time to go now as dinner will soon be served. I will add photos later.
Friday, 5 February 2010
To The Lake
I am getting annoyed today with this cursor as it is not being friendly and going where I want it to go.
This week we went for a walk to the lake which is right by Merzouga. An expedition of German speakers; led by Michael, went ahead. There was Michael's friend Petra, a young family with two small daughters Laura and Freya and Norbert from Austria. Ammar went back for my pills as I had forgotten to take them.
Nice weather for walking. Met some camels on the way. They are set free from the auberges and allowed to wander to the lake to drink. An English man was with his Ford Transit admiring the view.
The family and Norbert left us to return to La Petit Prince, which is the auberge where they were stqying with camping cars. We carried on to the barrage where we could hear the songs of frogs from a small offshoot of the lake.
On another day this week we went to Erfoud and I had henna. A girl called Fatima did it.My hands were so cold that a gas can was brought to dry off the henna and to warm my hands. On the way home I picked off the dried henna. So satisfying.
Tomorrow evening we are having a party. Yesterday Ammar did all of the shopping in mud ridden Rissani. Yes there is rain in the desert. He spent 1000 dirhams and we still have to get 3 chickens. Here they buy things in kilos and there was 8 kg of beef. We are catering for about 40 people. There is one extra now. He is Ammar's nephew Youssef from Agadir. We haven't told anyone from Tafraoute where Ammar's sister Fatima lives but they are coming from Erfoud.
I did some washing today. It has to be done by hand in water and Tide, which seems to be the powder most widely used here.
Some thing I just wrote has gone. The cursor is still playing up. Ammar thinks that a dongle and a wire will be better so that we can use the laptop at home.
So I will finish now and wait here for Ammar who has gone to a cafe with Youssef.
This week we went for a walk to the lake which is right by Merzouga. An expedition of German speakers; led by Michael, went ahead. There was Michael's friend Petra, a young family with two small daughters Laura and Freya and Norbert from Austria. Ammar went back for my pills as I had forgotten to take them.
Nice weather for walking. Met some camels on the way. They are set free from the auberges and allowed to wander to the lake to drink. An English man was with his Ford Transit admiring the view.
The family and Norbert left us to return to La Petit Prince, which is the auberge where they were stqying with camping cars. We carried on to the barrage where we could hear the songs of frogs from a small offshoot of the lake.
On another day this week we went to Erfoud and I had henna. A girl called Fatima did it.My hands were so cold that a gas can was brought to dry off the henna and to warm my hands. On the way home I picked off the dried henna. So satisfying.
Tomorrow evening we are having a party. Yesterday Ammar did all of the shopping in mud ridden Rissani. Yes there is rain in the desert. He spent 1000 dirhams and we still have to get 3 chickens. Here they buy things in kilos and there was 8 kg of beef. We are catering for about 40 people. There is one extra now. He is Ammar's nephew Youssef from Agadir. We haven't told anyone from Tafraoute where Ammar's sister Fatima lives but they are coming from Erfoud.
I did some washing today. It has to be done by hand in water and Tide, which seems to be the powder most widely used here.
Some thing I just wrote has gone. The cursor is still playing up. Ammar thinks that a dongle and a wire will be better so that we can use the laptop at home.
So I will finish now and wait here for Ammar who has gone to a cafe with Youssef.
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