Not easy to do this blog resting the keyboard on my lap.
Anyway, its good news, Ammar is collecting his visa at 2 today from Rabat. I emailed the visa manager asking if they could fast track his application. A couple of days later he rang me and said that A. could have the visa and then he asked me a few questions.
I have booked his flight with Ryanair for Saturday from Marrackech to Bristol. I have also booked a night at the Ibis for him. On Sunday P and T are going to collect him from Gloucester railway station and bring him here. So the countdown begins.
All that running around Rabat was worth it. The last hurdle is to get the boarding card - which has to be printed from the Ryanair website. So we'll do that today.
Haven't yet got round to putting new photos onto the new pages.
Monday 8 November 2010
Tuesday 2 November 2010
Back home
Not a lot I can do with a broken leg but I can do my blog, which I neglected to do much of in Morocco.
A lot of the time was spent getting documents ready for the visa application. Finally we went to Rabat. We took the bus from Merzouga to Meknes and then the train to Rabat. I met a nice little bissy at the station with huge whiskers. It canme onto my lap and was very happy there and having that moggy made the time pass and was a lovely way to spend the time.
Once in Rabat we tramped round finding a cheap hotel - using the Rough Guide to help us. We settled on the Hotel Galulois. It was fine and the next day we set out to get the marriage document translated. Stupidly we went for the one that's near to one of the official places. It has an advertising board outside and has touts too to bring in business. Try to hide your documents round there. Anyway I was charged 410 dirhams for a both job - we found no end of mistakes - particularly in our names. Then we had to go to another place to get it stamped and there the said that the translation place hadn't signed the dsocument. So I looked at it again and found another mistake, we Ammar did - it said that we had married in 2010. They changed that and there were still mistakes. Anyway they rectified them and then we returned to the government office and got it stamped and signed. We then went to another government place for another stamp. No queue but when the woman looked at the original document she told A,mmar that we had to go back to Er Rachidia to the court to get it stamped and signed by the court president. So back on the train to Meknes and a visit to Youssef's place to while away the time until the coach at 9.30 p.m. Then we met up with Mustapha and Ahmed (former students) and they chatted to us with Youssef and Idir.
Back to Merzouga and the next day to Er Rachidia to the court. It was simple, not a lot of waiting round. We spent the est of the time at the home of Ibrahim, one of Ammar's cousins. There was a wedding going on outside and we were able to see some ahidous - young men standing round the grooms with tambouirs. The grooms were getting hennaed and clothed in the wedding clothes. They wore the same clothes as at a Merzouga wedding but in a slightly different way. I wasn't allowed to take photos but I can remember. The red cloth was put around the forehead and not covering the face, as in Merzouga.The grooms also had tassels a bit like Merzouga brides. Didn't get to see the brides but apparently they don't wear tassels and their veils are longer. This tradition is from the area of a town between Rissani and Tazzaine - Alnif I think. The tent wasn't a traditional camel hair one but a plastic white one, fully enclosed.
The bus took us back to Meknes and we caught the train again to Rabat. Actually I think it was on this trip that I met the whiskery cat as on the last trip there were people that Ammar knew at the station.
Decided to stay in another hotel - Hotel Berlin. Got the marriage document translated in another place and the woman was fantastic. She charged less and was not stroppy when we pointed out a couple of errors. Back to the first stamping place, then the second place, all went well, and then to the third stamping place. A great queue was outside, one of men and one of women. We were called eventually and given a ticket with a number. Then we sat downstairs until we were all called upstairs. Ammar went to get the document stamped and signed. That being done the next task was to get a photocopy of it.
Finally Ammar had to get a new photo and where it was done the man was very nice and chatty. He even gave us a large copy of the photo for nothing.
Our next task was to do something for one of Ammar's brothers. We went to the address given but they had moved premises. After lunch we took a taxi miles and miles to the new premises of the pension department of the government. A super bouilding but we werer going to have to wait for hours to get to see someone. We waited an hour but nothing was coming our way so we gave up.
Friday 22nd October was the day for Ammar to give in the documents we had collected and to get a biometric photo and fingerprints done. Early in the morning I went to the toilet and on my way out I stepped down to the floor of the room and slipped on a shiny tile that had water on it. I went down with a bang and knew at once that I had broken my leg.
A lot of the time was spent getting documents ready for the visa application. Finally we went to Rabat. We took the bus from Merzouga to Meknes and then the train to Rabat. I met a nice little bissy at the station with huge whiskers. It canme onto my lap and was very happy there and having that moggy made the time pass and was a lovely way to spend the time.
Once in Rabat we tramped round finding a cheap hotel - using the Rough Guide to help us. We settled on the Hotel Galulois. It was fine and the next day we set out to get the marriage document translated. Stupidly we went for the one that's near to one of the official places. It has an advertising board outside and has touts too to bring in business. Try to hide your documents round there. Anyway I was charged 410 dirhams for a both job - we found no end of mistakes - particularly in our names. Then we had to go to another place to get it stamped and there the said that the translation place hadn't signed the dsocument. So I looked at it again and found another mistake, we Ammar did - it said that we had married in 2010. They changed that and there were still mistakes. Anyway they rectified them and then we returned to the government office and got it stamped and signed. We then went to another government place for another stamp. No queue but when the woman looked at the original document she told A,mmar that we had to go back to Er Rachidia to the court to get it stamped and signed by the court president. So back on the train to Meknes and a visit to Youssef's place to while away the time until the coach at 9.30 p.m. Then we met up with Mustapha and Ahmed (former students) and they chatted to us with Youssef and Idir.
Back to Merzouga and the next day to Er Rachidia to the court. It was simple, not a lot of waiting round. We spent the est of the time at the home of Ibrahim, one of Ammar's cousins. There was a wedding going on outside and we were able to see some ahidous - young men standing round the grooms with tambouirs. The grooms were getting hennaed and clothed in the wedding clothes. They wore the same clothes as at a Merzouga wedding but in a slightly different way. I wasn't allowed to take photos but I can remember. The red cloth was put around the forehead and not covering the face, as in Merzouga.The grooms also had tassels a bit like Merzouga brides. Didn't get to see the brides but apparently they don't wear tassels and their veils are longer. This tradition is from the area of a town between Rissani and Tazzaine - Alnif I think. The tent wasn't a traditional camel hair one but a plastic white one, fully enclosed.
The bus took us back to Meknes and we caught the train again to Rabat. Actually I think it was on this trip that I met the whiskery cat as on the last trip there were people that Ammar knew at the station.
Decided to stay in another hotel - Hotel Berlin. Got the marriage document translated in another place and the woman was fantastic. She charged less and was not stroppy when we pointed out a couple of errors. Back to the first stamping place, then the second place, all went well, and then to the third stamping place. A great queue was outside, one of men and one of women. We were called eventually and given a ticket with a number. Then we sat downstairs until we were all called upstairs. Ammar went to get the document stamped and signed. That being done the next task was to get a photocopy of it.
Finally Ammar had to get a new photo and where it was done the man was very nice and chatty. He even gave us a large copy of the photo for nothing.
Our next task was to do something for one of Ammar's brothers. We went to the address given but they had moved premises. After lunch we took a taxi miles and miles to the new premises of the pension department of the government. A super bouilding but we werer going to have to wait for hours to get to see someone. We waited an hour but nothing was coming our way so we gave up.
Friday 22nd October was the day for Ammar to give in the documents we had collected and to get a biometric photo and fingerprints done. Early in the morning I went to the toilet and on my way out I stepped down to the floor of the room and slipped on a shiny tile that had water on it. I went down with a bang and knew at once that I had broken my leg.
Saturday 9 October 2010
Dates
Yesterday we went to the Ksar Bicha in Merzouga to see Ammar's niece. She was in the house with a circle of female relatives who were sitting around a mound of dates. They were cutting or picking out the end of the stalk and throwing thedates into palm baskets. When the baskets were full the dates were poured into a blue plastic bag. K. told me that they had already filled twenty baskets.
I decided to join in and just used my left thumb to gouge out the stalks. Not good for the nail.I was refreshed by some tea and gateau - small homemade biscuits.
Last weekend we were in Erfoud to see the International Date Festival. The main tents were just outside the town so we walked there through sand and stones. It is amazing what can be done with the palm tree. Jam is made from the dates and a juice is boiled out of them which is called tahlaoute. I have tasted it with ta'am - a sort of big cous cous boiled like porridge.Another important part of the tree is the leaf. Many useful household things are made from them. In the past the trunks of the palm were used in the constuction of ceilings in kasbahs. At the exhibition we saw how the irrigation canals were used and small bridges over the canals were made from slabs of palm trunk.
On our way back to Merzouga we visited the centre of Erfoud to see a small exhibition of local crafts.It was there that I tripped and fell, luckily onto a carpet. I hadn't fallen for a while so it was a bit of a shock. I was glad to get home.
Ammar has filled in the visa application form and his interview is booked. We made lots of photocopies and still have a few more to do. The main thing left to do is to translate our marriage document. And of course to get the application fee from the bank.
I decided to join in and just used my left thumb to gouge out the stalks. Not good for the nail.I was refreshed by some tea and gateau - small homemade biscuits.
Last weekend we were in Erfoud to see the International Date Festival. The main tents were just outside the town so we walked there through sand and stones. It is amazing what can be done with the palm tree. Jam is made from the dates and a juice is boiled out of them which is called tahlaoute. I have tasted it with ta'am - a sort of big cous cous boiled like porridge.Another important part of the tree is the leaf. Many useful household things are made from them. In the past the trunks of the palm were used in the constuction of ceilings in kasbahs. At the exhibition we saw how the irrigation canals were used and small bridges over the canals were made from slabs of palm trunk.
On our way back to Merzouga we visited the centre of Erfoud to see a small exhibition of local crafts.It was there that I tripped and fell, luckily onto a carpet. I hadn't fallen for a while so it was a bit of a shock. I was glad to get home.
Ammar has filled in the visa application form and his interview is booked. We made lots of photocopies and still have a few more to do. The main thing left to do is to translate our marriage document. And of course to get the application fee from the bank.
Thursday 16 September 2010
Hassles
Had a hard time getting into this blog. But all is fine now.
My combi boiler has crashed. A man will be here to fix it today - so the insurance people say. No hot water and no heating. So more duvets. It will need to be fixed for P. to use. The man was supposed to be here by 11 and now its just past that time. Hey ho, these things are sent to try us.
Anyway back to Morocco. Ammar is setting off from Rissani on the long way round trip via Beni Melal. He will be at Marrackech just about 6.30 a.m. We decided it would be a good idea for him to go to the Ibis for a rest so I booked it for just one night. He will be able to stay there from 12.00 noon and have a rest and a shower and then come and fetch me in the early evening from the airport.
I would like to stay at the Marana again but this time we need to catch the early Supratour bus to Merzouga and it goes from near the railway station and the Ibis is also near to the station. So we will go to the Marana on the way back.
Ammar told me yesterday about one of his nieces being pregnant. That is three babies on the way now and two of the mothers are his nieces and the other one is his nephew's wife. I hope one of them is born when I am in Morocco.
Ammar has nieces and nephews in 6 families. Well not exactly correct as one sister has 5 sons and is daughterless. But now two of her sons are married and so she has help at home at last.
I am knitting another hat in my spare Moroccan wool. Its a stripy number in green, blue and red. I have a lot of red but have now run out of green and only have a bit of blue left. There are some great hats on the net to knit. And I learned to do the ladder stitch to sew up knitting. I watched it on a youtube video.Youtube is a great resource for learning. I will definitely have a good look when I return.
So I am just going to ring about the boiler man. Well that's great, they weren't even coming out today. So I have arranged for them to come here on Saturday and P will have to deal with the man. So now to email him about it.
The more you rely on these inventions the more you will have to deal with the difficulties they present.
I will have to empty the airing cupboard. Oh joy!
My combi boiler has crashed. A man will be here to fix it today - so the insurance people say. No hot water and no heating. So more duvets. It will need to be fixed for P. to use. The man was supposed to be here by 11 and now its just past that time. Hey ho, these things are sent to try us.
Anyway back to Morocco. Ammar is setting off from Rissani on the long way round trip via Beni Melal. He will be at Marrackech just about 6.30 a.m. We decided it would be a good idea for him to go to the Ibis for a rest so I booked it for just one night. He will be able to stay there from 12.00 noon and have a rest and a shower and then come and fetch me in the early evening from the airport.
I would like to stay at the Marana again but this time we need to catch the early Supratour bus to Merzouga and it goes from near the railway station and the Ibis is also near to the station. So we will go to the Marana on the way back.
Ammar told me yesterday about one of his nieces being pregnant. That is three babies on the way now and two of the mothers are his nieces and the other one is his nephew's wife. I hope one of them is born when I am in Morocco.
Ammar has nieces and nephews in 6 families. Well not exactly correct as one sister has 5 sons and is daughterless. But now two of her sons are married and so she has help at home at last.
I am knitting another hat in my spare Moroccan wool. Its a stripy number in green, blue and red. I have a lot of red but have now run out of green and only have a bit of blue left. There are some great hats on the net to knit. And I learned to do the ladder stitch to sew up knitting. I watched it on a youtube video.Youtube is a great resource for learning. I will definitely have a good look when I return.
So I am just going to ring about the boiler man. Well that's great, they weren't even coming out today. So I have arranged for them to come here on Saturday and P will have to deal with the man. So now to email him about it.
The more you rely on these inventions the more you will have to deal with the difficulties they present.
I will have to empty the airing cupboard. Oh joy!
Saturday 11 September 2010
Returning
I have just done a preview and couldn't get back to this page. Also I forgot to save my blog.
So here I go again. Next Saturday I am flying out from Bristol with Ryanair, as usual for my 12th trip to Morocco. The plane lands at Marrakech, where I will be met by my lovely Ammar. We will probably stay at the Ibis there as it is near to the place where we have to catch the Supratour bus to Merzouga. The bus goes all the way there now so we don't have to break at Ourzazate and stay overnight. So Supratours now have two routes to Merzouga.,the other one is from Fes.
I will be travelling down by train on Friday - buying two tickets to make the journey cheaper. I expect I could do the journey on Saturday as the plane leaves in the afternoon but I would rather take it easy and stay overnight at the Ibis near Temple Meads Station.Maybe I could even find some charity shops to visit in the afternoon.
Ramadan is over now so Ammar is back to his usual self. I don't know how he manages to do it. I really admire muslims for taking it on. He sent me a lovely photo of Ayman, who is now lying on his back and chewing on melon rinds - his teeth must be on the way. I have been at home since February and so he is about 7 months now.
It would have been nice to have more photos of the kids but skype was sending files so slowly. The kids were all dressed up for Eid and Hamid wore a turban.
I am also getting excited about seeing Tricky and her new kittens. They were born after I left. I hope they are still there when I get there. My darling little Shrad died and I was very upset, but I have some photos of her and some nice memories, especially of her following us home and sleeping in the cardboard box Ammar put out for her. And jumping at the bees and eating them. And climbing up onto my shoulder.
My suitcase is almost packed. Just got to put some trousers in and maybe another top. I hope I am within the weight limit of 15kg. I am taking a smaller backpack so can't take so much in it. I left the larger one with Ammar.
Today I ironed and one of the things was a length of cloth that I will get another caftan and trousers made from. Its light yellow with green and red stars. It's cotton so I have washed it so that it will shrink before it's made up into garments.
On this visit I want to go to Chefchoaen - I hope I have spelled that correctly. I must look for a suitable place to stay on the net. I hope there are cheap riads.
Another thing I want to see is my black shawl, which is going around the family to be embroidered by the womenfolk. It will be unique.
I will be doing knitting - this time its hats not scarves. Last time I noticed that a stall in Rissani sells yarn already wound into balls. When I decided to take up knitting scarves I could only find wool in skeins and Rkia and Zohra helped me to wind the wool. I still have some and I have already knitted three hats from it.
So here I go again. Next Saturday I am flying out from Bristol with Ryanair, as usual for my 12th trip to Morocco. The plane lands at Marrakech, where I will be met by my lovely Ammar. We will probably stay at the Ibis there as it is near to the place where we have to catch the Supratour bus to Merzouga. The bus goes all the way there now so we don't have to break at Ourzazate and stay overnight. So Supratours now have two routes to Merzouga.,the other one is from Fes.
I will be travelling down by train on Friday - buying two tickets to make the journey cheaper. I expect I could do the journey on Saturday as the plane leaves in the afternoon but I would rather take it easy and stay overnight at the Ibis near Temple Meads Station.Maybe I could even find some charity shops to visit in the afternoon.
Ramadan is over now so Ammar is back to his usual self. I don't know how he manages to do it. I really admire muslims for taking it on. He sent me a lovely photo of Ayman, who is now lying on his back and chewing on melon rinds - his teeth must be on the way. I have been at home since February and so he is about 7 months now.
It would have been nice to have more photos of the kids but skype was sending files so slowly. The kids were all dressed up for Eid and Hamid wore a turban.
I am also getting excited about seeing Tricky and her new kittens. They were born after I left. I hope they are still there when I get there. My darling little Shrad died and I was very upset, but I have some photos of her and some nice memories, especially of her following us home and sleeping in the cardboard box Ammar put out for her. And jumping at the bees and eating them. And climbing up onto my shoulder.
My suitcase is almost packed. Just got to put some trousers in and maybe another top. I hope I am within the weight limit of 15kg. I am taking a smaller backpack so can't take so much in it. I left the larger one with Ammar.
Today I ironed and one of the things was a length of cloth that I will get another caftan and trousers made from. Its light yellow with green and red stars. It's cotton so I have washed it so that it will shrink before it's made up into garments.
On this visit I want to go to Chefchoaen - I hope I have spelled that correctly. I must look for a suitable place to stay on the net. I hope there are cheap riads.
Another thing I want to see is my black shawl, which is going around the family to be embroidered by the womenfolk. It will be unique.
I will be doing knitting - this time its hats not scarves. Last time I noticed that a stall in Rissani sells yarn already wound into balls. When I decided to take up knitting scarves I could only find wool in skeins and Rkia and Zohra helped me to wind the wool. I still have some and I have already knitted three hats from it.
Tuesday 23 March 2010
Silent Dongle
Ammar has joined the Aicha Gazelle Rallye. He has been working for it for the past two years. I got a phone call from him last Saturday to explain that he wouldn't be coming online because he was tired after walking to a spot in the dunes. He was certainly huffing and puffing. So I rang him on Monday and he was eating dinner at the bivouac at Alnif. He will be with the rallye for about a week. I must look it up on the net.
You can read about it on Wikipedia.
Ammar's job is to wait at one of the points that the drivers have to go to. He stamps their book or signs it. A bit of a lonely job I would say. I don't know how many participants he sees in a day. You can even follow the rallye live if you connect to the website - you can find it on Wikipedia. Somewhere on that map is Ammar's spot. I think they are now south west of Erg Chebbi in Merzouga.
Next time I visit Morocco I want to stay in a riad in Fes. I saw a lovely one on another blog. It's a good price too for the night. We will just go for the visa next time, no matter what.
You can read about it on Wikipedia.
Ammar's job is to wait at one of the points that the drivers have to go to. He stamps their book or signs it. A bit of a lonely job I would say. I don't know how many participants he sees in a day. You can even follow the rallye live if you connect to the website - you can find it on Wikipedia. Somewhere on that map is Ammar's spot. I think they are now south west of Erg Chebbi in Merzouga.
Next time I visit Morocco I want to stay in a riad in Fes. I saw a lovely one on another blog. It's a good price too for the night. We will just go for the visa next time, no matter what.
Tuesday 9 March 2010
Dongle news
Ammar is regularly contacting from his room, so much better than going to the net, as we used to say. Yesterday I got a look at the family shawl. Rkia is doing really well, she has put the fringe/tassels along two of the sides and it looks really good. She asked if I had started my own shawl but I had to say no.
It was nice to see Ayoub and Khowla. Now I am just waiting to see Nazha. And one day Ammar will take the laptop and dongle to the cafe so that I can see the cats and kittens.
I have found some beldi music that I used to hear in Des Amis (the cafe in Merzouga). It's by someone called Jellouli and can be found on http://music:.zizvalley.com/
Beldi music is my latest find in Moroccan music. It's not Amazigh but Arabic. It's the oud sound I like and it's so jolly.Abdou at the cafe always has something interesting playing for the customers.
Ammar has lent his camera to the headmaster, who is taking photos of some gifts donated by the people on the Raid 4L. A raid is a bit like a rallaye. This one consists of Renault 4 cars covered with stickers going from place to place, including the desert. Some of the cars are very colourful. There are three on this blog, but I think there were 1000 cars in total. I would love to have one of those cars, there are plenty of them in Morocco. I used to get a lift to my second school (when I was teaching) with a Miss Jenkins, who had one. The main difference between it and other cars is that the gear stick is on the steering wheel column. I was always fascinated when I watched Miss Jenkins change gears.
The family in Ait Meloul is ok. Ammar rang Hassan. Adam, the new baby is crying all through the night. Of course I was asking questions about the family but Ammar didn't ask them. Of course it was one man talking to another and they talk about different things.
Ammar has sent me the rest of the photos he took in Marrakech, then ones of door knockers and a carved piece of stone at the Badia Palace and views of the palace and the storks' nests there. He also sent some more photos of the kittens with their eyes just opening. I will miss that lovely stage when they come out of their 'nest' and start to explore. He is still giving Tricky and Shrad some sardines and they are now feeding side by side with no animosity. I don't think they know that they are related.
Got a bit waylaid and looked at my Facebook page and then to my Moroccan groups. Found a lovely singer called Hindi Zahra so I'm going to find out more about her on Google.
It was nice to see Ayoub and Khowla. Now I am just waiting to see Nazha. And one day Ammar will take the laptop and dongle to the cafe so that I can see the cats and kittens.
I have found some beldi music that I used to hear in Des Amis (the cafe in Merzouga). It's by someone called Jellouli and can be found on http://music:.zizvalley.com/
Beldi music is my latest find in Moroccan music. It's not Amazigh but Arabic. It's the oud sound I like and it's so jolly.Abdou at the cafe always has something interesting playing for the customers.
Ammar has lent his camera to the headmaster, who is taking photos of some gifts donated by the people on the Raid 4L. A raid is a bit like a rallaye. This one consists of Renault 4 cars covered with stickers going from place to place, including the desert. Some of the cars are very colourful. There are three on this blog, but I think there were 1000 cars in total. I would love to have one of those cars, there are plenty of them in Morocco. I used to get a lift to my second school (when I was teaching) with a Miss Jenkins, who had one. The main difference between it and other cars is that the gear stick is on the steering wheel column. I was always fascinated when I watched Miss Jenkins change gears.
The family in Ait Meloul is ok. Ammar rang Hassan. Adam, the new baby is crying all through the night. Of course I was asking questions about the family but Ammar didn't ask them. Of course it was one man talking to another and they talk about different things.
Ammar has sent me the rest of the photos he took in Marrakech, then ones of door knockers and a carved piece of stone at the Badia Palace and views of the palace and the storks' nests there. He also sent some more photos of the kittens with their eyes just opening. I will miss that lovely stage when they come out of their 'nest' and start to explore. He is still giving Tricky and Shrad some sardines and they are now feeding side by side with no animosity. I don't think they know that they are related.
Got a bit waylaid and looked at my Facebook page and then to my Moroccan groups. Found a lovely singer called Hindi Zahra so I'm going to find out more about her on Google.
Tuesday 2 March 2010
An Amazigh Woman
I wrote a poem about all the Amazigh women I have seen and met in Morocco. I can't cut and paste here though so I will have to write it again.
An Amazigh Woman
An Amazigh woman rises on a dark morning to feed her family sustaining soup or ta'am with ta'loute
She squats on the cuisine floor to mix tissent, zit and amen to form flat rounds of bread that she kneads and pats with skill.
She stacks them in blankets to warm and rise. She carries them on her head to the clay oven where they are tended and turned over the flames.
She found her wood and carried it one her back and it is her turn to take care of the oven today.
And then she hunches down to peel, scrape, cut and chunk the season's vegetables for tagine or couscous.
She salts and spices, oils, waters and heats and leaves it to soften and sweeten.
An Amazigh woman produces party dishes without writing a list.She works with others in seamless activity. Rkia and Bidda tending tagines and cultivating couscous.
Her daughters, nieces, friends mix together the biscuit and cake things, with no sign of a recipe book. They create doughs for sponges decorated with coconut, jam or pounded coacoa.
An Amazigh woman goes to her fields to cut plants for her sheep or goats. She feeds them peelings and cores from the meals and takes their milk for her family.
An Amazigh woman weaves a pattern with needle and thread, adding sparkle and tinkle with silver sequins and keeps the pattern in her head.
An Amazigh woman creates carpets, weaving and knotting with her kin. It is her sofa at the edges of her sitting room in her mud built home.
An Amazigh woman rests in prayer, placing the sheepskin east. Her prayer is serene, even in the midst of chaos.
She is amazing.
An Amazigh Woman
An Amazigh woman rises on a dark morning to feed her family sustaining soup or ta'am with ta'loute
She squats on the cuisine floor to mix tissent, zit and amen to form flat rounds of bread that she kneads and pats with skill.
She stacks them in blankets to warm and rise. She carries them on her head to the clay oven where they are tended and turned over the flames.
She found her wood and carried it one her back and it is her turn to take care of the oven today.
And then she hunches down to peel, scrape, cut and chunk the season's vegetables for tagine or couscous.
She salts and spices, oils, waters and heats and leaves it to soften and sweeten.
An Amazigh woman produces party dishes without writing a list.She works with others in seamless activity. Rkia and Bidda tending tagines and cultivating couscous.
Her daughters, nieces, friends mix together the biscuit and cake things, with no sign of a recipe book. They create doughs for sponges decorated with coconut, jam or pounded coacoa.
An Amazigh woman goes to her fields to cut plants for her sheep or goats. She feeds them peelings and cores from the meals and takes their milk for her family.
An Amazigh woman weaves a pattern with needle and thread, adding sparkle and tinkle with silver sequins and keeps the pattern in her head.
An Amazigh woman creates carpets, weaving and knotting with her kin. It is her sofa at the edges of her sitting room in her mud built home.
An Amazigh woman rests in prayer, placing the sheepskin east. Her prayer is serene, even in the midst of chaos.
She is amazing.
Monday 1 March 2010
Return
I was not unhappy to be attending the baby party, I was glad to be going home. There is something refreshing about movement.
I didn't say goodbye to next door. Ammar told them that I would cry but that's not quite it. I feel a bit embarrassed about farewells, I just want to go and as I have noticed the people in Merzouga do not usually say goodbye when they leave. They sort of melt away and that suits me exactly.
We got up early and Ammar fussed about in the room. It was my job to strip the bed. He will wash the sheets and pillowcases on his return. He encased the couette in its zippered plastic bag. He was right, the Cow Blanket was not equal to the couette in warmth and comfort.
The suitcase was ready and I had packed a smaller backpack - the one I had given to Ammar for his laptop, but which he had rejected for a stronger one. Anyway I gave my bigger backpack to him gladly and did not feel so burdened when this smaller one was on my back. It was so much easier to manouvre on the plane too.
I got out and waited for Ammar while he locked up. We walked briskly to the cafe where he told me not to touch the cats. He went off to find a taxi and I sat outside but couldn't resist seeing Tricky for one last time. Shrad was not there and I did not call her. One quick stroke and Ammar was calling me for the taxi. I got into my usual place in the back seat, by the door. Far less hassle getting out from that position than from the central squash. There were three of us and two in the front seat. The driver turned round to find another passenger to make up the complement of 6 but there was no one on the cobbles of the main street. He found his last passenger on the way out of Merzouga. Ammar asked him to take us to the grand taxi place for our next taxi to Er Rachidia.
The day was hot and the engine was on in the taxi and we were waiting in the back for extra passengers getting hotter. We got out and sat in the shade. I was back in my Western clothes, trousers, top and my raincoat. I had struggled back into my Doc Martin shoes that really need a shoe horn to help me get into them. They were dirty with dust. Nothing stays pristine in Merzouga for long.
We took about an hour to get to Er Rachidia and I fell asleep on the way. We had eaten bread and fig jam at home so were not hungry. At Er Rachidia we made our way to our favourite cafe. It was about 11.30. I think that cafe is called Fiesta but I can't be sure as my memory doesn't hold that sort of information for long. It's a nice clean cafe with sit on toilets and a clean wash basin. We had a lunch of a shared salad with a small plate of chips followed by a sausage and olive sandwich and more chips which we did not share. Cokes were our chosen drink.
Our next move was to the bus station to see about a CTM bus to Ouarzazate. It was going too late so it was decided that we would do what we did on my last return and that was to take a grand taxi to Tinhrir and from there get another one to Ourzazate. Again we sought the shade and I had a tonic water to cool me. We sat near a down and out who gave out an unwashed smell that I have once or twice smelt on children that have been in a class of mine. I felt sorry for the man. Ammar guessed that he was mentally ill, there are many such people wandering the streets of Morocco. Some of them look really wild and are probably homeless. There is one who wanders the streets of Merzouga, but he is no threat as he is not mad looking and he is cared for.
We waited for almost 3/4 of an hour for the taxi to get its full amount of passengers. In fact I paid for three seats as it was a longer journey. The driver stopped at the police station to get his permission to take us to Tinhrir and we were on our way with just a small but adequate amount of air coming in to cool us. This driver did not even have the handle to open the window on my side. He just turned the point around with his hand. The removal of the back window handles is a feature of Moroccan Grand taxis. You have to ask the driver for the handle. Anyway this driver was not too bothered about his taxi as it was pretty wrecked, but that didn't stop him doing 120 km per hour. The journey was more uncomfortable for Ammar as he was in the middle and the suspension was not good. I was glad when we reached Tinhrir. The cost of 3 places was 120 dirhams.
Last time we did this journey we found a weeping tree that provided shade. This tree had been badly manicured and there was no shade at all. We went to the cafe and sat on the terrace under the moving shade of a tall pine tree. So hot for this time of year. We spent our time observing flirting turtle doves and Ammar going to see whether the passengers were coming. Eventually I decided to buy the space for four passengers and the driver agreed to go with one other passenger in the front. This taxi was far nicer and more comfortable and the driver had the necessary window winder. Again it was a speedy journey and Ammar had asked him to take us to La Vallee, the hotel we usually use, which is on the other side of the Oued Ourzazate.
I think we got there around 7. So nice not to get the extra taxi needed to get to the other side of the river. The river was quite full and had recently flooded. There were other floods in Morocco too, not good for houses made of mud. As a result of the flash flood in Merzouga in 2006 the houses there are being built with stone foundations and in some cases with clay or concrete bricks. But the mud building still continues as its cheap and easy to do.
The night at La Vallee was comfortable. We had to wake early as Youssef the manager had told us that the bus for Marrakech was leaving at 8. Just time for breakfast then. Forget about a shower. When we got to the CTM station we saw that a bus also left at 11.30, but it was better to get to Marrakech earlier. As we were waiting we noticed an older couple with backpacks. From their speech I guessed they were German or Dutch. I got talking to the woman and found they were Norwegian and had been in Morocco for about a week and were flying back on Saturday on the once a week flight from Oslo.
The woman was a teacher and was on her half term. Her husband had been a teacher but was working with computers. Its amazing how much you can learn from a short conversation. We discussed children's behaviour and it seems that the children of Norway are no different from the ones coming into schools in England, unable to talk or walk even ( I think that was a bit of a joke). Anyway children have changed in their behaviour from when I first began teaching. Also I didn't know that Norway was not in the EC. It has an economy based on North Sea Oil and Gas and that is why there is not much unemployment there and the people earn healthy salaries. But it still takes two to buy a house.
That conversation sort of fizzled out and it was time to get on the bus. The Atlas mountains had snow on their peaks and looked magnificent. I wanted a photo to show them but the bus was moving too quickly and the moment passed. But more moments came and I got my photos - well Ammar did. We stopped for lunch and shared a small tagine. There were a few cafes with tagines and a barbecue outside. The tagine were cooking in the traditional way, over a small fire of charcoal.
We wandered into a couple of shops after as I wanted to find a pair of earrings but saw nothing special. One shopkeeper tried his best to keep me there saying 'The bus stays here for 25 minutes' but just then we heard the horn and knew that the 25 minutes was up.
In Marrakech the first thing to do was to get a card for Ammar's phone so that he could ring the Riad Marana, where I wanted to stay again. We were in luck. Our taxi took us to the square which was pretty crowded. It was so hot, I had discarded my coat at the bus station in Ouarzazate.
This time we got the room I wanted. It was called Scherazade and had a simple 4 poster bed. It was heavenly. The bed had two long pieces of white cloth draped over the grid on the top and on the white counterpane there were two huge matching white pillows and artfully arranged was a thin red rug.
The riad was suffused with the smell of incense and we enjoyed the atmosphere as we sat in the courtyard drinking tea and eating biscuits.
A riad is such a lovely place to stay in Morocco. Riad Marana is typical of the smaller and less expensive ones. We have stayed in three different ones now, Riad Todra in Marrakech, which is no longer functioning and another at the medina in Essaouiara which didn't even have a name when we stayed there.
I am listening to one of two cds I bought for 15 dirhams each in the square Djemma El Fna. Its the second album of Tinariwen. Earlier I was playing the Beldi music I bought when I first came here. It plays really well on my equipment but was stuttering on Ammar's player. I think these cds are copies. The other one is the new one by Sami Yusuf.
So we had time to shower and then to wander the square and to wind down from our long journey.
We had dinner in one of the small cafes at the side of the square. I had tangia, but I didn't enjoy it much. The chips were really good though A tangia is a meat dish that has been cooked in a clay pot of the same name for a very long time, usually in the ashes of the fuel that heats an hammam.. The first tangia I had was pretty good but rather salty, this one was not well cooked as the meat in the first one I ate seemed to melt in my mouth.
There were parts of the medina that we hadn't visited before so we ambled along looking for a musical instrument seller to buy one of those oboe type instruments that the snake charmers in the square play to attract customers. We found one and haggled the price, eventually getting it down to 150 dirhams I think. Anyway I bought it and we had fun with the seller. He demonstrated how to play it. The mouthpiece was fixed to the centre of a 1p coin.It's not an easy instrument to play as it requires a lot of breath and co-ordination to get the notes from the holes. It's a bit like a recorder too as it's made of wood and is a very simple instrument.
I also bought some more scarves at the price of 20 dirhams each as they were in a sale. There were plenty of them jumbled together in a couple of boxes in a side street. We passed a man selling a plastic moustache and glasses which blew out two tubes of plastic whilst making a piercing whistle. We looked and laughed and went on but later we got one for Ayoub's amusement.
There were plenty of people in the square eating, wandering, riding bicycles and mobettes, gathering in circles around musicians and acrobats and storytellers.The drumming was my favourite thing, I just love the rhythms of different players together.
At bedtime we untied the curtains round the bed and enclosed ourselves in a little private world. The bed itself was so comfy that when I woke up for breakfast on Saturday I didn't want to leave it.
Breakfast was at 9. We were alone in the courtyard where we were entertained by a little rust and dark blue bird that flew in and ate some of our crumbs. I had cake and coffee with milk and French bread with jam. Then the waiter brought us what I thought was harcha but when we tasted it Ammar said it was something different called Bot Bot ( or something like that). It was a little round piece of bread really.Pancakes were also served but I couldn't manage one even.
We paid and got a refund of 100 dirhams as we had stayed before. The price was thus 500 dirhams. Our plan was to visit the ruined Bahia Palace and to leave our luggage at the riad. The palace was not too far to walk and a policeman put us on the right road after a man offered to take us there ( for a price of course).
Ammar didn't have to pay entry to the palace but I paid 10 dirhams. It was a total ruin and had been restored in places with cold concrete not very appealing to the eye. It must have been magnificent when it was first built but the ruler died and of course the one who succeeded him wanted his own palace. In one place there was still some zillij left and Ammar took a photo.
We passed a tree with orange blossom on it which was such a lovely smell in this sad ruin. There were a few red roses growing but I couldn't get down to smell them as they were in a sunken garden mostly filled with orange trees and wild yellow and orange flowers and swaying grass. There was a strong breeze which alieviated the sun's strength.
I decided not to take home some delicious biscuits I had bought and gave them to Ammar to give away. I have eaten too many cakes and need to have a rest from them. The patisseries sell their cakes and buscuits by weight and package them in a decorative box. I have my biscuits from the baby party to eat.
Lunch was a poor affair. My omelette was spoiled by bits of egg shell and in one piece a large chunk of it. I should have complained earlier but it was so hard to get the waiter's eye. Anyway the chips made up for the omelette. It was a cheese ommelette - with a piece of laughing cow - I bet the owners were laughing about that too. But Morocco is not England and food is different.
Our next goal was to find a place for Ammar to stay as the riad was too expensive for just one person. We found the Hotel Ali, which Petra, Michael's friend had recommended. They had a room for 200 dirhams with breakfast included but they wouldn't let me accompany Ammar to the room. He was pleased with it and left his bag there.
We got a petit taxi to the airport for 40 dirhams, one driver wanted 50. The drivers charge more than they are supposed to and hide their meters. In the end he got 37 dirhams as we didn't have enough change. Ammar waited in the check in queue with me. Once again my suitcase was under 15kg, so I breathed a sigh of relief. I left Ammar by the entry to the departure area and joined the women's queue. A policewoman frisked me around the middle and let me go.
At the departure lounge I walked through the perfume section but didn't find anything I wanted. I really don't need perfume as I have a drawerful at home.I spotted an icecream seller and so bought one at an inflated price but it was nice after the heat of the Marrakech streets. I also got a bottle of water for the plane and a Snickers bar.
The plane was a bit late and I was anxious to know which departure gate we would go to. It was gate 3 and we were whisked through. I was talking to a young man in the queue from Morocco. He was studying linguistics at Exeter University and was interesting to chat to while we waited to show our boarding passes again.
And so the plane was boarded, it flew to Bristol passing an amazing sunset, which seemed to last for half and hour and with an unexpected hard landing I was home on English concrete.
I didn't say goodbye to next door. Ammar told them that I would cry but that's not quite it. I feel a bit embarrassed about farewells, I just want to go and as I have noticed the people in Merzouga do not usually say goodbye when they leave. They sort of melt away and that suits me exactly.
We got up early and Ammar fussed about in the room. It was my job to strip the bed. He will wash the sheets and pillowcases on his return. He encased the couette in its zippered plastic bag. He was right, the Cow Blanket was not equal to the couette in warmth and comfort.
The suitcase was ready and I had packed a smaller backpack - the one I had given to Ammar for his laptop, but which he had rejected for a stronger one. Anyway I gave my bigger backpack to him gladly and did not feel so burdened when this smaller one was on my back. It was so much easier to manouvre on the plane too.
I got out and waited for Ammar while he locked up. We walked briskly to the cafe where he told me not to touch the cats. He went off to find a taxi and I sat outside but couldn't resist seeing Tricky for one last time. Shrad was not there and I did not call her. One quick stroke and Ammar was calling me for the taxi. I got into my usual place in the back seat, by the door. Far less hassle getting out from that position than from the central squash. There were three of us and two in the front seat. The driver turned round to find another passenger to make up the complement of 6 but there was no one on the cobbles of the main street. He found his last passenger on the way out of Merzouga. Ammar asked him to take us to the grand taxi place for our next taxi to Er Rachidia.
The day was hot and the engine was on in the taxi and we were waiting in the back for extra passengers getting hotter. We got out and sat in the shade. I was back in my Western clothes, trousers, top and my raincoat. I had struggled back into my Doc Martin shoes that really need a shoe horn to help me get into them. They were dirty with dust. Nothing stays pristine in Merzouga for long.
We took about an hour to get to Er Rachidia and I fell asleep on the way. We had eaten bread and fig jam at home so were not hungry. At Er Rachidia we made our way to our favourite cafe. It was about 11.30. I think that cafe is called Fiesta but I can't be sure as my memory doesn't hold that sort of information for long. It's a nice clean cafe with sit on toilets and a clean wash basin. We had a lunch of a shared salad with a small plate of chips followed by a sausage and olive sandwich and more chips which we did not share. Cokes were our chosen drink.
Our next move was to the bus station to see about a CTM bus to Ouarzazate. It was going too late so it was decided that we would do what we did on my last return and that was to take a grand taxi to Tinhrir and from there get another one to Ourzazate. Again we sought the shade and I had a tonic water to cool me. We sat near a down and out who gave out an unwashed smell that I have once or twice smelt on children that have been in a class of mine. I felt sorry for the man. Ammar guessed that he was mentally ill, there are many such people wandering the streets of Morocco. Some of them look really wild and are probably homeless. There is one who wanders the streets of Merzouga, but he is no threat as he is not mad looking and he is cared for.
We waited for almost 3/4 of an hour for the taxi to get its full amount of passengers. In fact I paid for three seats as it was a longer journey. The driver stopped at the police station to get his permission to take us to Tinhrir and we were on our way with just a small but adequate amount of air coming in to cool us. This driver did not even have the handle to open the window on my side. He just turned the point around with his hand. The removal of the back window handles is a feature of Moroccan Grand taxis. You have to ask the driver for the handle. Anyway this driver was not too bothered about his taxi as it was pretty wrecked, but that didn't stop him doing 120 km per hour. The journey was more uncomfortable for Ammar as he was in the middle and the suspension was not good. I was glad when we reached Tinhrir. The cost of 3 places was 120 dirhams.
Last time we did this journey we found a weeping tree that provided shade. This tree had been badly manicured and there was no shade at all. We went to the cafe and sat on the terrace under the moving shade of a tall pine tree. So hot for this time of year. We spent our time observing flirting turtle doves and Ammar going to see whether the passengers were coming. Eventually I decided to buy the space for four passengers and the driver agreed to go with one other passenger in the front. This taxi was far nicer and more comfortable and the driver had the necessary window winder. Again it was a speedy journey and Ammar had asked him to take us to La Vallee, the hotel we usually use, which is on the other side of the Oued Ourzazate.
I think we got there around 7. So nice not to get the extra taxi needed to get to the other side of the river. The river was quite full and had recently flooded. There were other floods in Morocco too, not good for houses made of mud. As a result of the flash flood in Merzouga in 2006 the houses there are being built with stone foundations and in some cases with clay or concrete bricks. But the mud building still continues as its cheap and easy to do.
The night at La Vallee was comfortable. We had to wake early as Youssef the manager had told us that the bus for Marrakech was leaving at 8. Just time for breakfast then. Forget about a shower. When we got to the CTM station we saw that a bus also left at 11.30, but it was better to get to Marrakech earlier. As we were waiting we noticed an older couple with backpacks. From their speech I guessed they were German or Dutch. I got talking to the woman and found they were Norwegian and had been in Morocco for about a week and were flying back on Saturday on the once a week flight from Oslo.
That conversation sort of fizzled out and it was time to get on the bus. The Atlas mountains had snow on their peaks and looked magnificent. I wanted a photo to show them but the bus was moving too quickly and the moment passed. But more moments came and I got my photos - well Ammar did. We stopped for lunch and shared a small tagine. There were a few cafes with tagines and a barbecue outside. The tagine were cooking in the traditional way, over a small fire of charcoal.
We wandered into a couple of shops after as I wanted to find a pair of earrings but saw nothing special. One shopkeeper tried his best to keep me there saying 'The bus stays here for 25 minutes' but just then we heard the horn and knew that the 25 minutes was up.
In Marrakech the first thing to do was to get a card for Ammar's phone so that he could ring the Riad Marana, where I wanted to stay again. We were in luck. Our taxi took us to the square which was pretty crowded. It was so hot, I had discarded my coat at the bus station in Ouarzazate.
This time we got the room I wanted. It was called Scherazade and had a simple 4 poster bed. It was heavenly. The bed had two long pieces of white cloth draped over the grid on the top and on the white counterpane there were two huge matching white pillows and artfully arranged was a thin red rug.
The riad was suffused with the smell of incense and we enjoyed the atmosphere as we sat in the courtyard drinking tea and eating biscuits.
A riad is such a lovely place to stay in Morocco. Riad Marana is typical of the smaller and less expensive ones. We have stayed in three different ones now, Riad Todra in Marrakech, which is no longer functioning and another at the medina in Essaouiara which didn't even have a name when we stayed there.
I am listening to one of two cds I bought for 15 dirhams each in the square Djemma El Fna. Its the second album of Tinariwen. Earlier I was playing the Beldi music I bought when I first came here. It plays really well on my equipment but was stuttering on Ammar's player. I think these cds are copies. The other one is the new one by Sami Yusuf.
So we had time to shower and then to wander the square and to wind down from our long journey.
We had dinner in one of the small cafes at the side of the square. I had tangia, but I didn't enjoy it much. The chips were really good though A tangia is a meat dish that has been cooked in a clay pot of the same name for a very long time, usually in the ashes of the fuel that heats an hammam.. The first tangia I had was pretty good but rather salty, this one was not well cooked as the meat in the first one I ate seemed to melt in my mouth.
There were parts of the medina that we hadn't visited before so we ambled along looking for a musical instrument seller to buy one of those oboe type instruments that the snake charmers in the square play to attract customers. We found one and haggled the price, eventually getting it down to 150 dirhams I think. Anyway I bought it and we had fun with the seller. He demonstrated how to play it. The mouthpiece was fixed to the centre of a 1p coin.It's not an easy instrument to play as it requires a lot of breath and co-ordination to get the notes from the holes. It's a bit like a recorder too as it's made of wood and is a very simple instrument.
I also bought some more scarves at the price of 20 dirhams each as they were in a sale. There were plenty of them jumbled together in a couple of boxes in a side street. We passed a man selling a plastic moustache and glasses which blew out two tubes of plastic whilst making a piercing whistle. We looked and laughed and went on but later we got one for Ayoub's amusement.
There were plenty of people in the square eating, wandering, riding bicycles and mobettes, gathering in circles around musicians and acrobats and storytellers.The drumming was my favourite thing, I just love the rhythms of different players together.
At bedtime we untied the curtains round the bed and enclosed ourselves in a little private world. The bed itself was so comfy that when I woke up for breakfast on Saturday I didn't want to leave it.
Breakfast was at 9. We were alone in the courtyard where we were entertained by a little rust and dark blue bird that flew in and ate some of our crumbs. I had cake and coffee with milk and French bread with jam. Then the waiter brought us what I thought was harcha but when we tasted it Ammar said it was something different called Bot Bot ( or something like that). It was a little round piece of bread really.Pancakes were also served but I couldn't manage one even.
We paid and got a refund of 100 dirhams as we had stayed before. The price was thus 500 dirhams. Our plan was to visit the ruined Bahia Palace and to leave our luggage at the riad. The palace was not too far to walk and a policeman put us on the right road after a man offered to take us there ( for a price of course).
Ammar didn't have to pay entry to the palace but I paid 10 dirhams. It was a total ruin and had been restored in places with cold concrete not very appealing to the eye. It must have been magnificent when it was first built but the ruler died and of course the one who succeeded him wanted his own palace. In one place there was still some zillij left and Ammar took a photo.
We passed a tree with orange blossom on it which was such a lovely smell in this sad ruin. There were a few red roses growing but I couldn't get down to smell them as they were in a sunken garden mostly filled with orange trees and wild yellow and orange flowers and swaying grass. There was a strong breeze which alieviated the sun's strength.
I decided not to take home some delicious biscuits I had bought and gave them to Ammar to give away. I have eaten too many cakes and need to have a rest from them. The patisseries sell their cakes and buscuits by weight and package them in a decorative box. I have my biscuits from the baby party to eat.
Lunch was a poor affair. My omelette was spoiled by bits of egg shell and in one piece a large chunk of it. I should have complained earlier but it was so hard to get the waiter's eye. Anyway the chips made up for the omelette. It was a cheese ommelette - with a piece of laughing cow - I bet the owners were laughing about that too. But Morocco is not England and food is different.
We got a petit taxi to the airport for 40 dirhams, one driver wanted 50. The drivers charge more than they are supposed to and hide their meters. In the end he got 37 dirhams as we didn't have enough change. Ammar waited in the check in queue with me. Once again my suitcase was under 15kg, so I breathed a sigh of relief. I left Ammar by the entry to the departure area and joined the women's queue. A policewoman frisked me around the middle and let me go.
At the departure lounge I walked through the perfume section but didn't find anything I wanted. I really don't need perfume as I have a drawerful at home.I spotted an icecream seller and so bought one at an inflated price but it was nice after the heat of the Marrakech streets. I also got a bottle of water for the plane and a Snickers bar.
The plane was a bit late and I was anxious to know which departure gate we would go to. It was gate 3 and we were whisked through. I was talking to a young man in the queue from Morocco. He was studying linguistics at Exeter University and was interesting to chat to while we waited to show our boarding passes again.
And so the plane was boarded, it flew to Bristol passing an amazing sunset, which seemed to last for half and hour and with an unexpected hard landing I was home on English concrete.
Wednesday 24 February 2010
A Dongle
Ammar now has a dongle so that he can communicate from home instead of going to the net and using the dirty computers there.We went to Rissani yesterday and did some shopping. We got some baby clothes,a baby duvet, perfume for Aicha, threads for my family shawl, a dongle and two cables and a scarf with fluffy balls on it. We had our lunch at Rissani, the same as the other day. Ah also I got to print out my boarding pass. I was getting a bit worried that I wasn't going to be able to do this as I had tried twice at Merzouga. So nice to be able to do this blog using the dongle. What a fantastic invention.
Today we went to see the new baby, who still hasn't got a name, but he may be called Marwan. The baby party has been postponed until Friday as some people couldn't come on Wednesday. We won't be going as we will be travelling to Marrakech then. We will go to Ourzazate tomorrow and stay at La Vallee for one night.
Another thing did yesterday was to buy a jellaba, which was made for me. It cost 400 dirhams, which is about £33. A jellaba is an outer garment that has a hood. Men have them too but they are not so decorative. Mine is light green with some embroidery on it and trimmings all made by hand to match the cloth. There is a tassel on the hood which is made of beads.The tailor who made it is trying to be more modern in his approach to tailoring. Ammar got his jellaba from the same tailor.
Something nasty to report. I think I have bites from cat fleas. I have two on my face and two on my left leg. They are round and red and do not bleed. They feel very hard. I must have caught them from Shrad as she got to my face a few times. I will go to the chemist when I get home and get something to get rid of them.
Don't think I wrote in here about my bee sting. I got it one day washing clothes in the courtyard which is a place that Zaid's bees can reach. Something got on my face and I wiped it away, unfortunately it was a bee and it stung me. The pain came straight away and got worse. Then I got swelling and that got worse and lasted for about 4 days. All is fine now, just a little scab there now.
The weather is getting hotter. I was hoping to wear my jellaba today but it would have been too hot.
We had a meal at an auberge the other night. Its one of the best auberges in Merzouga and is called Riad Nezha. They had cous cous but it was too expensive at 80 dirhams each. We asked if we could have chips and an omelette with onions and tomatoes.They obliged. I couldn't eat any of the fruit after as I was so full. In fact we left some of the omelette. It is not an omelette as we know it in England as it is not folded over at the end of cooking but stays in the tagine.
Back to the preparations for the baby party. Khadija, Zaid's daughter, was starting to make some biscuits. They had made some round ones earlier and I was given a parcel of them wrapped in cellophane and tied with a bow. I will eat them at home. We visited Youssef's house on the way home and there was also some biscuit/cake making going on. This was different though and something that I had never seen before. Hyatt made small squares from the dough and then wrapped 3 squares around a small stick of bamboo. The squares were put on corner to corner. Then she lowered them into a pan of hot oil to fry - bamboo stick and all. A photo opportunity was missed but I want to go there again to see if I can take a photo of the finished biscuits/cakes. I think the term sweetmeats is more appropriate.
Today we went to see the new baby, who still hasn't got a name, but he may be called Marwan. The baby party has been postponed until Friday as some people couldn't come on Wednesday. We won't be going as we will be travelling to Marrakech then. We will go to Ourzazate tomorrow and stay at La Vallee for one night.
Another thing did yesterday was to buy a jellaba, which was made for me. It cost 400 dirhams, which is about £33. A jellaba is an outer garment that has a hood. Men have them too but they are not so decorative. Mine is light green with some embroidery on it and trimmings all made by hand to match the cloth. There is a tassel on the hood which is made of beads.The tailor who made it is trying to be more modern in his approach to tailoring. Ammar got his jellaba from the same tailor.
Something nasty to report. I think I have bites from cat fleas. I have two on my face and two on my left leg. They are round and red and do not bleed. They feel very hard. I must have caught them from Shrad as she got to my face a few times. I will go to the chemist when I get home and get something to get rid of them.
Don't think I wrote in here about my bee sting. I got it one day washing clothes in the courtyard which is a place that Zaid's bees can reach. Something got on my face and I wiped it away, unfortunately it was a bee and it stung me. The pain came straight away and got worse. Then I got swelling and that got worse and lasted for about 4 days. All is fine now, just a little scab there now.
The weather is getting hotter. I was hoping to wear my jellaba today but it would have been too hot.
We had a meal at an auberge the other night. Its one of the best auberges in Merzouga and is called Riad Nezha. They had cous cous but it was too expensive at 80 dirhams each. We asked if we could have chips and an omelette with onions and tomatoes.They obliged. I couldn't eat any of the fruit after as I was so full. In fact we left some of the omelette. It is not an omelette as we know it in England as it is not folded over at the end of cooking but stays in the tagine.
Back to the preparations for the baby party. Khadija, Zaid's daughter, was starting to make some biscuits. They had made some round ones earlier and I was given a parcel of them wrapped in cellophane and tied with a bow. I will eat them at home. We visited Youssef's house on the way home and there was also some biscuit/cake making going on. This was different though and something that I had never seen before. Hyatt made small squares from the dough and then wrapped 3 squares around a small stick of bamboo. The squares were put on corner to corner. Then she lowered them into a pan of hot oil to fry - bamboo stick and all. A photo opportunity was missed but I want to go there again to see if I can take a photo of the finished biscuits/cakes. I think the term sweetmeats is more appropriate.
Sunday 21 February 2010
A new Ouadirou
I haven't been on here for a while as we went to Tafraoute, where it was very windy. We stayed for three nights from Sunday to Wednesday. The new brides are fitting in well. Youssef the student was there - he cameon the bus with us. The journey takes about 3 and a half hours across the desert. There are a few isolated houses on the way and they get their water from a well. The bus driver is a sort of shopping service and when he nears the village he goesto different houses to deliver stuff. A sheep was lifted down from the roof of the bus at one house. Must have had a bumpy ride. We made a toilet stop, which was very welcome.
Youssef is learning English at university in Meknes, but now he has finished his exams he has come home for about three weeks. On arrival he immediately began helping with the goats, which were being put into their night quarters. His brother Idir was there too. He took a test to become a teacher and is waiting for the results. I hope he gets a job.
On the first day I sat outside on a plastic patio chair with Fatima, Ammar's sister. It was hot there so we moved to the shade. There were plenty of baby goats to watch jumping from stone to stone. I also looked into the smoky oven - really a small room with a clay oven inside where the bread is baked. Here they put the dough onto a metal plate covered with hot stones. Despite a chimney in the roof and two holes in the wall it's still very smoky in there.
Zhour,one of Fatima's three daughters, was using her knitting machine and she made one side of a jumper. I hope I will be in Morocco for her wedding to her cousin Hamid in May. I call him the original Hamid as he was from his mother's first family and in her second marriage she called another son Hamid.
Fatima's grandson Mubarack came with his mum but he is still wary of strangers (me). We gave him some bubbles and he liked them.
When we came back to Rissani we had a long wait for transport to Merzouga, long enough to buy some yogurts, another 5 litres of water, 9 boxes of incense cones - all different aromas and to meet Mohamed, another teacher. We had lunch at the Panorama cafe and while I was waiting for Ammar to find a tailors I started on the chips. He came back and said that he had met Ali his nephew outside the hospital, where his pregnant wife Aisha, had gone earlier. By the time we left Rissani she had given birth to a boy.
After lunch we went to the tailor where I ordered a jellaba to be made. It should beready by Wednesday and I can wear it to the baby party. We visited the new parents and baby at Ali's father's house in Merzouga. The baby was lovely and I got to hold him. I saw him being wrapped in the traditional way in a white cloth held in place by a woollen rope with a cowrie shell attached to keep away the evil eye. His head was also covered with a white cloth fixed inplace with a small white scarf. Aicha looked well and happy. Fatima and Mohamed have come from Arghbalou to help with the catering.
There will be a baby party on Wednesday and we will learn the name of the baby.
Youssef is learning English at university in Meknes, but now he has finished his exams he has come home for about three weeks. On arrival he immediately began helping with the goats, which were being put into their night quarters. His brother Idir was there too. He took a test to become a teacher and is waiting for the results. I hope he gets a job.
On the first day I sat outside on a plastic patio chair with Fatima, Ammar's sister. It was hot there so we moved to the shade. There were plenty of baby goats to watch jumping from stone to stone. I also looked into the smoky oven - really a small room with a clay oven inside where the bread is baked. Here they put the dough onto a metal plate covered with hot stones. Despite a chimney in the roof and two holes in the wall it's still very smoky in there.
Zhour,one of Fatima's three daughters, was using her knitting machine and she made one side of a jumper. I hope I will be in Morocco for her wedding to her cousin Hamid in May. I call him the original Hamid as he was from his mother's first family and in her second marriage she called another son Hamid.
Fatima's grandson Mubarack came with his mum but he is still wary of strangers (me). We gave him some bubbles and he liked them.
When we came back to Rissani we had a long wait for transport to Merzouga, long enough to buy some yogurts, another 5 litres of water, 9 boxes of incense cones - all different aromas and to meet Mohamed, another teacher. We had lunch at the Panorama cafe and while I was waiting for Ammar to find a tailors I started on the chips. He came back and said that he had met Ali his nephew outside the hospital, where his pregnant wife Aisha, had gone earlier. By the time we left Rissani she had given birth to a boy.
After lunch we went to the tailor where I ordered a jellaba to be made. It should beready by Wednesday and I can wear it to the baby party. We visited the new parents and baby at Ali's father's house in Merzouga. The baby was lovely and I got to hold him. I saw him being wrapped in the traditional way in a white cloth held in place by a woollen rope with a cowrie shell attached to keep away the evil eye. His head was also covered with a white cloth fixed inplace with a small white scarf. Aicha looked well and happy. Fatima and Mohamed have come from Arghbalou to help with the catering.
There will be a baby party on Wednesday and we will learn the name of the baby.
Friday 12 February 2010
New kittens
Tricky has had her kittens but I don't know how many. She is in the place in the cafe where she had the previous two sets. So that has made my day. I saw her and one kitten tail so I will just have to be patient.
Nothing else to report really. The day is a bit cloudy. We had lunch at Ammar's nephew Youssef's place, which was tagine and a bowl of couscous from a neighbour. Ammar wore his new jellaba, which was bought from the tailor's shop in Merzouga. The shop has only been here for about 2 months. The owner is very nice and has some lovely clothes. I would like to have a jellaba made for me so I will look for cloth when we next go to Rissani.
This computer is not the easiest to use. The keys keep getting stuck. I tried to get to my virginmedia email today but couldn't.
Now to go back to the cafe and to see Shrad and do some more sudoku.
Nothing else to report really. The day is a bit cloudy. We had lunch at Ammar's nephew Youssef's place, which was tagine and a bowl of couscous from a neighbour. Ammar wore his new jellaba, which was bought from the tailor's shop in Merzouga. The shop has only been here for about 2 months. The owner is very nice and has some lovely clothes. I would like to have a jellaba made for me so I will look for cloth when we next go to Rissani.
This computer is not the easiest to use. The keys keep getting stuck. I tried to get to my virginmedia email today but couldn't.
Now to go back to the cafe and to see Shrad and do some more sudoku.
Wednesday 10 February 2010
Parties
Haven't been here for a few days as other things took over. The party last Saturday was a success. In the morning the girls started making cakes. First they made a bucketful of biscuits and then some sponge cake. The biscuits were proer ones as they were cooked twice.
Khadija from Erfoud made the yogurt sponge cake with the help of her cousin Khadija from Merzouga. In this area they mix all of the wet ingredients first with their right hand and then add the dry ones. The sponge mixture was poured into a round cake tin and baked in a very simple gas oven. At no time did I see anyone looking at a recipe book.
Meanwhile Rkia was busy cleaning the chickens and Zhour was washing some clothes. All in the same room. In another room Zaid, Youssef and Mohamed were making bee boxes. There is no such thing as a garden shed or workshop at residences. Later Rkia and her friend Biddah were making the couscous and tagines in the cuisine or kitchen. Guests began to arrive later in the afternoon and the women were served their food in the best room after the men had eaten.
But before the couscous and tagine there was tea, caékes, biscuits and nuts. The chicken went into the couscous and lots of beef went with the tagine. We couldn't have music as one of Ammar's sister in laws had had a bereavement.
It was a good visa wedding party and the party poppers were well received, especiqlly by the young women in the family. We took lots of photos. I wore my pink caftan with the sequined scarf and my pink shoes. Some others wore their caftans for a while.
The following day we had another walk to the lake with Rkia - Ammar's sister, Ammar and Mohamed her sons and Khadija and Asma her daughters. Youssef from Agadir had also come to Merzouga and so to the party. He had come to get a family book as he had recently married a French woman. He was on the walk too. It was a sunny walk and hot too so I was glad of my shawl which kept the sun off my head. Khowla came too and for a 4 year old she was a good walker and never complained once.
The lake was very calm and we could see flamingoes in the distance and hear the honking of geese. We sat for a rest and ate some orange and biscuits and drank water while mating dragonflies drifted past. On the way back we encountered a few darting lizards and were followed by a lone yellow butterfly.
Youssef and Ammar were still at the lake but when they caught up they told us that they had seen a snake, which Ammar identified as a cobra.
Yesterday we went to a baby party at Rkia's family home. The baby was born on the day of our first lake walk so he was 7 days old. He has been given the name Hamid. He was with his mother in a small room which was lined with older Berber women along two of the walls. Whenever a woman came into the room she greeted everyone individually and a few said bonjour to me. Later Khadija came to take me outside so that I could have an early lunch with two French women Beatrice and Mary. We sat by the swimming pool and ate our couscous and tagine. A cat came along and had a drink from the pool but wouldn't come to me.
In the evening we had a meal at our favourite auberge La Petit Prince where we ate a plate of chips and an omelette with Youssef from Agadir. Then I asked if we could have some drumming so Ammar, our waiter Said and another guy called Mohamed played some tam tams. I love this sort of drumming. I made a small video of them.
The third party was a wedding, which was taking place at the end of the main street. We went along tonight as we could hear some traditional music. Soon after we arrived a group of 4 men stqrting playing their tambours and they were joined by three women to do ahidous - which is a slowish dance done at weddings where the men play tambours and sing and the women reply in song to the song of the men. This was done on the street with a crowd looking on. But there was no sign of the bride or groom. This was the third and last day of the wedding.
I somehow don't think that we will apply for the visa this time as Ammar has some marks on his face and this is not acceptable for the biometric photo which has to be taken. So many hoops to jump through.
We have planned to visit Ammar's sister Fatima on Sunday and will return on Wednesday. She lives in a straggling village not accessible by tarmac road. We will go in a little bus, usually a Mercedes; and the journey will take about 3 hours. The village is called Tafraoute and has only recently been connected to mains electricity and to the mobile phone.
Time to go now as dinner will soon be served. I will add photos later.
Khadija from Erfoud made the yogurt sponge cake with the help of her cousin Khadija from Merzouga. In this area they mix all of the wet ingredients first with their right hand and then add the dry ones. The sponge mixture was poured into a round cake tin and baked in a very simple gas oven. At no time did I see anyone looking at a recipe book.
Meanwhile Rkia was busy cleaning the chickens and Zhour was washing some clothes. All in the same room. In another room Zaid, Youssef and Mohamed were making bee boxes. There is no such thing as a garden shed or workshop at residences. Later Rkia and her friend Biddah were making the couscous and tagines in the cuisine or kitchen. Guests began to arrive later in the afternoon and the women were served their food in the best room after the men had eaten.
But before the couscous and tagine there was tea, caékes, biscuits and nuts. The chicken went into the couscous and lots of beef went with the tagine. We couldn't have music as one of Ammar's sister in laws had had a bereavement.
It was a good visa wedding party and the party poppers were well received, especiqlly by the young women in the family. We took lots of photos. I wore my pink caftan with the sequined scarf and my pink shoes. Some others wore their caftans for a while.
The following day we had another walk to the lake with Rkia - Ammar's sister, Ammar and Mohamed her sons and Khadija and Asma her daughters. Youssef from Agadir had also come to Merzouga and so to the party. He had come to get a family book as he had recently married a French woman. He was on the walk too. It was a sunny walk and hot too so I was glad of my shawl which kept the sun off my head. Khowla came too and for a 4 year old she was a good walker and never complained once.
The lake was very calm and we could see flamingoes in the distance and hear the honking of geese. We sat for a rest and ate some orange and biscuits and drank water while mating dragonflies drifted past. On the way back we encountered a few darting lizards and were followed by a lone yellow butterfly.
Youssef and Ammar were still at the lake but when they caught up they told us that they had seen a snake, which Ammar identified as a cobra.
Yesterday we went to a baby party at Rkia's family home. The baby was born on the day of our first lake walk so he was 7 days old. He has been given the name Hamid. He was with his mother in a small room which was lined with older Berber women along two of the walls. Whenever a woman came into the room she greeted everyone individually and a few said bonjour to me. Later Khadija came to take me outside so that I could have an early lunch with two French women Beatrice and Mary. We sat by the swimming pool and ate our couscous and tagine. A cat came along and had a drink from the pool but wouldn't come to me.
In the evening we had a meal at our favourite auberge La Petit Prince where we ate a plate of chips and an omelette with Youssef from Agadir. Then I asked if we could have some drumming so Ammar, our waiter Said and another guy called Mohamed played some tam tams. I love this sort of drumming. I made a small video of them.
The third party was a wedding, which was taking place at the end of the main street. We went along tonight as we could hear some traditional music. Soon after we arrived a group of 4 men stqrting playing their tambours and they were joined by three women to do ahidous - which is a slowish dance done at weddings where the men play tambours and sing and the women reply in song to the song of the men. This was done on the street with a crowd looking on. But there was no sign of the bride or groom. This was the third and last day of the wedding.
I somehow don't think that we will apply for the visa this time as Ammar has some marks on his face and this is not acceptable for the biometric photo which has to be taken. So many hoops to jump through.
We have planned to visit Ammar's sister Fatima on Sunday and will return on Wednesday. She lives in a straggling village not accessible by tarmac road. We will go in a little bus, usually a Mercedes; and the journey will take about 3 hours. The village is called Tafraoute and has only recently been connected to mains electricity and to the mobile phone.
Time to go now as dinner will soon be served. I will add photos later.
Friday 5 February 2010
To The Lake
I am getting annoyed today with this cursor as it is not being friendly and going where I want it to go.
This week we went for a walk to the lake which is right by Merzouga. An expedition of German speakers; led by Michael, went ahead. There was Michael's friend Petra, a young family with two small daughters Laura and Freya and Norbert from Austria. Ammar went back for my pills as I had forgotten to take them.
Nice weather for walking. Met some camels on the way. They are set free from the auberges and allowed to wander to the lake to drink. An English man was with his Ford Transit admiring the view.
The family and Norbert left us to return to La Petit Prince, which is the auberge where they were stqying with camping cars. We carried on to the barrage where we could hear the songs of frogs from a small offshoot of the lake.
On another day this week we went to Erfoud and I had henna. A girl called Fatima did it.My hands were so cold that a gas can was brought to dry off the henna and to warm my hands. On the way home I picked off the dried henna. So satisfying.
Tomorrow evening we are having a party. Yesterday Ammar did all of the shopping in mud ridden Rissani. Yes there is rain in the desert. He spent 1000 dirhams and we still have to get 3 chickens. Here they buy things in kilos and there was 8 kg of beef. We are catering for about 40 people. There is one extra now. He is Ammar's nephew Youssef from Agadir. We haven't told anyone from Tafraoute where Ammar's sister Fatima lives but they are coming from Erfoud.
I did some washing today. It has to be done by hand in water and Tide, which seems to be the powder most widely used here.
Some thing I just wrote has gone. The cursor is still playing up. Ammar thinks that a dongle and a wire will be better so that we can use the laptop at home.
So I will finish now and wait here for Ammar who has gone to a cafe with Youssef.
This week we went for a walk to the lake which is right by Merzouga. An expedition of German speakers; led by Michael, went ahead. There was Michael's friend Petra, a young family with two small daughters Laura and Freya and Norbert from Austria. Ammar went back for my pills as I had forgotten to take them.
Nice weather for walking. Met some camels on the way. They are set free from the auberges and allowed to wander to the lake to drink. An English man was with his Ford Transit admiring the view.
The family and Norbert left us to return to La Petit Prince, which is the auberge where they were stqying with camping cars. We carried on to the barrage where we could hear the songs of frogs from a small offshoot of the lake.
On another day this week we went to Erfoud and I had henna. A girl called Fatima did it.My hands were so cold that a gas can was brought to dry off the henna and to warm my hands. On the way home I picked off the dried henna. So satisfying.
Tomorrow evening we are having a party. Yesterday Ammar did all of the shopping in mud ridden Rissani. Yes there is rain in the desert. He spent 1000 dirhams and we still have to get 3 chickens. Here they buy things in kilos and there was 8 kg of beef. We are catering for about 40 people. There is one extra now. He is Ammar's nephew Youssef from Agadir. We haven't told anyone from Tafraoute where Ammar's sister Fatima lives but they are coming from Erfoud.
I did some washing today. It has to be done by hand in water and Tide, which seems to be the powder most widely used here.
Some thing I just wrote has gone. The cursor is still playing up. Ammar thinks that a dongle and a wire will be better so that we can use the laptop at home.
So I will finish now and wait here for Ammar who has gone to a cafe with Youssef.
Sunday 31 January 2010
3 Sunny Days
oday is the third of 3 sunny days. I was very silly on two of them as I sat in the sun reading my book and yesterday got very tired so took to my bed. We were going to Erfoud today to see Ammar's sister Rkia and family but I felt odd. I was persuaded to get up after a back massage and a tepid shower and then I felt better.
We went for lunch at Hyatt and Lahcen's place. First of all peanuts and biscuits and tea; then the meal; a mixed salad and a chicken tagine. There was a plate of green olives too. Lahcen showed us his kidney stones - which had to be removed by operation in Rabat.
Rkia, Zaid's wife, has begun my shawl. She is joining the two pieces with a small embroidery stitch. It will be wonderful when all the women of the family have stitched something on it.
Fatima and Mohamed are here from Aghbalou, a village in the Atlas mountains. He is a teacher there and now there are school holidays. We looked at a video he made of him and Fatima throwing snowballs and another where they were making a snowman with orange peel for the facial features.
Today some bees came out of the first hive and now there is a new colony in a new hive. A way to calm the bees is to spray water on them and then they can't fly. They fly when they dry.
Little Hanan was making squealing noises at her house. She is a happy little girl and is getting strong legs by standing a lot. I think she will get some teeth soon as she is shoving a fist in her mouth and dribbling a lot. We have yet to see baby Hassan but he is progressing well and going onto his tummy now. He is the same age as Hanan.
The other night the little kitten followed us home. She spent the night in a cut down cardboard box which was made comfy by putting a pair of old leggings and a piece of blanket inside. We fed her some sardines and gave her water and she spent the night there. We decided that looking after her would not be a good thing as we move round quite a lot and so we took her back to the cafe. We still see her every day there and she or Tricky jump onto my lap and settle down happily. And of course we still feed them.
The trip to Erfoud is quite long. It takes half an hour to get to Rissani by taxi or little bus. I prefer the bus as the taxi has to take 6 passengers and it's a bit of a squash. Then we walk to the taxi place in Rissani to get a taxi to Erfoud. Another half hour or so. We get off and walk to Rkia's house. I am hoping to have henna on my hands tomorrow. Rkia's daughter Khadija has a friend who does it. I am looking forward to seeing the family, especially Asma and Mohamed, the two youngest.
We went for lunch at Hyatt and Lahcen's place. First of all peanuts and biscuits and tea; then the meal; a mixed salad and a chicken tagine. There was a plate of green olives too. Lahcen showed us his kidney stones - which had to be removed by operation in Rabat.
Rkia, Zaid's wife, has begun my shawl. She is joining the two pieces with a small embroidery stitch. It will be wonderful when all the women of the family have stitched something on it.
Fatima and Mohamed are here from Aghbalou, a village in the Atlas mountains. He is a teacher there and now there are school holidays. We looked at a video he made of him and Fatima throwing snowballs and another where they were making a snowman with orange peel for the facial features.
Today some bees came out of the first hive and now there is a new colony in a new hive. A way to calm the bees is to spray water on them and then they can't fly. They fly when they dry.
Little Hanan was making squealing noises at her house. She is a happy little girl and is getting strong legs by standing a lot. I think she will get some teeth soon as she is shoving a fist in her mouth and dribbling a lot. We have yet to see baby Hassan but he is progressing well and going onto his tummy now. He is the same age as Hanan.
The other night the little kitten followed us home. She spent the night in a cut down cardboard box which was made comfy by putting a pair of old leggings and a piece of blanket inside. We fed her some sardines and gave her water and she spent the night there. We decided that looking after her would not be a good thing as we move round quite a lot and so we took her back to the cafe. We still see her every day there and she or Tricky jump onto my lap and settle down happily. And of course we still feed them.
The trip to Erfoud is quite long. It takes half an hour to get to Rissani by taxi or little bus. I prefer the bus as the taxi has to take 6 passengers and it's a bit of a squash. Then we walk to the taxi place in Rissani to get a taxi to Erfoud. Another half hour or so. We get off and walk to Rkia's house. I am hoping to have henna on my hands tomorrow. Rkia's daughter Khadija has a friend who does it. I am looking forward to seeing the family, especially Asma and Mohamed, the two youngest.
Wednesday 27 January 2010
A Rainy Day
We think that one of Tricky's kittens has come back. It may be the little one we called Shrad, which means three in Tamazight - the Berber language of the region. The other two were Yan and Sin, or One and Two. We fed Tricky and Shrad with some cheese but Shrad made nasty noises at Tricky.
Yesterday I watched Zaid making frames for the wax for his beehives. He made about 8, nailing them together then putting some wire across them on which to fix the wax. The wax comes in sheets which are a starter for the bees. He melts the wax to fix it to the wires.
We are getting proper tagines now as they have bought a new tagine. The onion is put in first and gets a bit burnt and tastes delicious. We have had couscous too and that was good. One day Rkia made Berber pizza and it was very tasty. It is a sort of stuffed bread. It had vegetables and eggs in it. Women here make round flat loaves here every day, the word for bread is aghrom. Not an easy word to say.
Today Zhour came back from school in Rissani, she has a weeks holiday. Fatima her older sister is coming tomorrow. Then all six children will be at home.
When Zaid was doing his bee hive frames Rkia was busy with a pile of parsley. Its not like the English crinkled one but the flat leved type. It's used a lot in cooking here. Another regular food is soup; which is eaten for breakfast. I had a bowl this morning, it is usually drunk from the bowl.
We were going to see Ammar's brother Addi and his family today but the rain put him off. We will return to the cafe where I will fuss over the cats and do some more sudoku. Ammar will probably play cards with the post office manager, the headmaster and some policemen and maybe funny Lahcen and Carpet Man. They have a jolly time there without the aid of alcohol. And the tv may be on for others to watch the football from Angola.
Dinner will be at Youssef's tonight. I dont know where the apostrophe is on this machine. It is not a qwerty layout, though most of the keys are in the same place. No one ever cleans the keys and this one is particularly grimy.
Ammar's friend Michael has driven to Ouarzazate today to collect a friend who wants to see the mountains and desert. We may meet up with him at Tafraoute, which is a small village nearer to the Algerian border. We usually travel there by small bus, which takes about 3 or so hours. Ammar has just shown me where the apostrophe is. '''''' Tafraoute is where Ammar's sister Fatima lives with her family.
Time to check my email.
Yesterday I watched Zaid making frames for the wax for his beehives. He made about 8, nailing them together then putting some wire across them on which to fix the wax. The wax comes in sheets which are a starter for the bees. He melts the wax to fix it to the wires.
We are getting proper tagines now as they have bought a new tagine. The onion is put in first and gets a bit burnt and tastes delicious. We have had couscous too and that was good. One day Rkia made Berber pizza and it was very tasty. It is a sort of stuffed bread. It had vegetables and eggs in it. Women here make round flat loaves here every day, the word for bread is aghrom. Not an easy word to say.
Today Zhour came back from school in Rissani, she has a weeks holiday. Fatima her older sister is coming tomorrow. Then all six children will be at home.
When Zaid was doing his bee hive frames Rkia was busy with a pile of parsley. Its not like the English crinkled one but the flat leved type. It's used a lot in cooking here. Another regular food is soup; which is eaten for breakfast. I had a bowl this morning, it is usually drunk from the bowl.
We were going to see Ammar's brother Addi and his family today but the rain put him off. We will return to the cafe where I will fuss over the cats and do some more sudoku. Ammar will probably play cards with the post office manager, the headmaster and some policemen and maybe funny Lahcen and Carpet Man. They have a jolly time there without the aid of alcohol. And the tv may be on for others to watch the football from Angola.
Dinner will be at Youssef's tonight. I dont know where the apostrophe is on this machine. It is not a qwerty layout, though most of the keys are in the same place. No one ever cleans the keys and this one is particularly grimy.
Ammar's friend Michael has driven to Ouarzazate today to collect a friend who wants to see the mountains and desert. We may meet up with him at Tafraoute, which is a small village nearer to the Algerian border. We usually travel there by small bus, which takes about 3 or so hours. Ammar has just shown me where the apostrophe is. '''''' Tafraoute is where Ammar's sister Fatima lives with her family.
Time to check my email.
Friday 22 January 2010
friday 22nd January
I am now in Morocco in Merzouga. The flight was good and the chief host steward was very funny. She told us it would be a challenge if we tried to go to the loo during the air turbulence. Also it would be like surfing if we tried to walk in the aisle.
Met a lovely lady on my way out of the plane. Her name is Kitty and she loves Morocco. She has visited about 90 times in the past 30 years. She was going to Imlil to stay with some Berber friends.
Got to the riad by phoning and asking for directions. A young woman came and showed us the route. A fab riad with a cosy room. Went to get some money at Credit Maroc and it swallowed my card. tried to use my credit card but it was rejected. I hope I remembered the number correctly. The card was returned the next morning.
Had an evening meal at the Argana cafe which is in the square. Not the best meal but a good view of the portable restaurants in the square.
Breakfast was good, they even had harcha - a cake of semolina. I had 2.The coffee was really good.
We took the bus to Ourzazate and while we were waiting we met and chatted to a young couple from Montreal. They were with their two sons Manu and Luka. So brave to travel with them in a different country. I bet they were glad of their double buggie.
Felt sick for the first part of the journey but after eating some tagine felt restored. We stayed at Dar Chamaa and met Mohammed whose family own the hotel in partnership with some Spanish. Mohammed was one of the students at the house in Meknes where Ammars nephew was staying. Mohammed was an English student at the university. It was great to see him again.
We got tickets on the CTM bus for Er Rachidia and walked about the main street. It was in my mind to buy an embroidered scarf that I had seen on another visit. We found the shop and a scarf was fixed to the ceiling. I wanted it and the man was trying to find a page in a book to show us one like it. I asked the price and he said 800 dirhams. A good job I was sitting down. Got him down to 250 but A was eager to go. I have decided that I will make one of my own embroidered scarves. I will get the cloth, needles and thread in Rissani on Sunday or maybe tomorrow.
A taxi took us to Rissani and an other took us to Merzouga. We were lucky to get it. But if we missed it we could have stayed with Ammars nephew Ali.
The big thing at Zaids, thats Ammars brother, is bees. Last year he started with one and then got another. Now he has about 7 boxes and two hives in old clay water pots. Today there was another swarm. Youssef, another nephew of Ammar is also following the bee craze. He was making his own box today.
We went to the cafe before coming to the net but didnt see Tricky, my adopted cat. Mohamed the Carpet Man was there and Funny Lahcen. Ammar has gone to see his German pal Michael at the auberge Le Petit Prince while I do the blog.
Im going to check my email now.
Met a lovely lady on my way out of the plane. Her name is Kitty and she loves Morocco. She has visited about 90 times in the past 30 years. She was going to Imlil to stay with some Berber friends.
Got to the riad by phoning and asking for directions. A young woman came and showed us the route. A fab riad with a cosy room. Went to get some money at Credit Maroc and it swallowed my card. tried to use my credit card but it was rejected. I hope I remembered the number correctly. The card was returned the next morning.
Had an evening meal at the Argana cafe which is in the square. Not the best meal but a good view of the portable restaurants in the square.
Breakfast was good, they even had harcha - a cake of semolina. I had 2.The coffee was really good.
We took the bus to Ourzazate and while we were waiting we met and chatted to a young couple from Montreal. They were with their two sons Manu and Luka. So brave to travel with them in a different country. I bet they were glad of their double buggie.
Felt sick for the first part of the journey but after eating some tagine felt restored. We stayed at Dar Chamaa and met Mohammed whose family own the hotel in partnership with some Spanish. Mohammed was one of the students at the house in Meknes where Ammars nephew was staying. Mohammed was an English student at the university. It was great to see him again.
We got tickets on the CTM bus for Er Rachidia and walked about the main street. It was in my mind to buy an embroidered scarf that I had seen on another visit. We found the shop and a scarf was fixed to the ceiling. I wanted it and the man was trying to find a page in a book to show us one like it. I asked the price and he said 800 dirhams. A good job I was sitting down. Got him down to 250 but A was eager to go. I have decided that I will make one of my own embroidered scarves. I will get the cloth, needles and thread in Rissani on Sunday or maybe tomorrow.
A taxi took us to Rissani and an other took us to Merzouga. We were lucky to get it. But if we missed it we could have stayed with Ammars nephew Ali.
The big thing at Zaids, thats Ammars brother, is bees. Last year he started with one and then got another. Now he has about 7 boxes and two hives in old clay water pots. Today there was another swarm. Youssef, another nephew of Ammar is also following the bee craze. He was making his own box today.
We went to the cafe before coming to the net but didnt see Tricky, my adopted cat. Mohamed the Carpet Man was there and Funny Lahcen. Ammar has gone to see his German pal Michael at the auberge Le Petit Prince while I do the blog.
Im going to check my email now.
Sunday 17 January 2010
Staying in a riad
Now I am getting excited. I decided I wanted to stay in a riad for a change instead of good old Ibis in Marrakech. Ammar told me of one and he had just phoned them and reserved a room and I have reserved it too via their website. www.riadmarana.com
It looks lovely, as do all of the riads and it is very near the square Djemma El Fna. If you ever go to Morocco be sure to stay in a riad. We have stayed in two so far. One of them was in Essouira and it was great, just opened. The other one was in Marrakech and it was Riad Todra, but it is not open now. I don't know why. Anyway this Riad Marana was recommended by a friend of Ammar so I expect it will be good. It looks good on their website.It will cost us 600 or 700 dirhams, but I'm not sure what that is in sterling.
My suitcase is almost packed, my backpack is almost packed. I just need to get up early tomorrow morning to get my lift to the bus stop. It is the low season now in Morocco but they still have sunshine and a bit of warmth
I have put the pictures up of the room I have reserved.
I'm going to add some photos
My suitcase is almost packed, my backpack is almost packed. I just need to get up early tomorrow morning to get my lift to the bus stop. It is the low season now in Morocco but they still have sunshine and a bit of warmth
I have put the pictures up of the room I have reserved.
I'm going to add some photos
This is the square in the evening when the food stalls are out
Typical musicians in the square
The square closer to the food stalls
And this is something I think is needed
The map doesn't show Merzouga but it does show Rissani, which is the nearest town.
Friday 15 January 2010
Just a weekend
So the snow is going. I was almost down to cancelling my flight the day before yesterday (Wednesday) as it was snowing all day long and when I looked at the Ryanair site they were saying you could reschedule your flight but when I tried to do it I couldn't. Sometimes the Internet is difficult. Anyway it looks as though I'm going to be lucky.
I think I have all the necessary documents for Ammar's visa application. I have even included some photos. I tried to get the old talks we had on msn as I had saved them but they are not in the same format as more current stuff, si I have decided not to bother.
Just got the last bit of packing to do, clothes and stuff like the body cleaners and things like that. I have got to find the camera things - charger and the phone charger. I am also taking my camcorder - should have left it there last time.
This is a picture of the gardens at Merzouga
A tagine made by Ammar's nephew in Meknes
Here is Ammar running up a dune at Merzouga 
Sunday 10 January 2010
Slowly getting things ready for Morocco. My suitcase is open on the sitting room floor. I've located my passport, I thought I'd lost it but I had left it in the suitcase as I knew I would be needing it soon.
The paperwork is coming on slowly. My printer isn't doing a good job as I have bought some cheap ink and it shows.
Had a bit of trouble talking to Ammar today. He got onto MSN but it wasn't working, then we tried skype but not much better so he changed computer and that did the trick although he couldn't see me. The best bit of news is that his kidney stone came out this morning. Hooray! Now he won't be getting the awful pain that he has to go to get an injection for. He showed it to me and it looked quite big.
Seems there is snow near Midelt. There is a way for him to get to Marrakech that doesn't involve going through Ourzazate, as that road to Marrakech must be full of snow. He can go to Beni Mellal.
I have bought a little blanket to cover our legs with as travelling on a Moroccan bus in winter is not pleasant. Last time I did it I was freezing. Ammar will bring his sleeping bag too for extra warmth. the 'cow' blanket would be nice but a bit big to carry. I will see if I can locate the photo of this lovely blanket.Still haven't found it but I did find a picture of snow in the Atlas mountains that I took a couple of years ago.
Yes I found the cow blanket pic. You can see why we called it that. I also got a nice duvet type thing called a cuette (not sure of the spelling) which kept us warm in Meknes. I have to be warm where ever I go.
I am just going to check Ryanair and download my boarding card.
Done it and put away in my little black purse. I forgot that you have to enter details about your passport onto the online checkin. But its all been done now.
Ammar has seen Tricky (my lovely Moroccan cat) but she didn't want him to touch her. I hope she will be friendly with me again. Maybe she is pregnant - this will be the third time. I think I will get her some dry food in Marrakech as you can't buy it in the south.
There is nothing really to indicate whether or not my flight will be cancelled. Its too early to tell - just over a week and 2 days to go.I have asked Paul to drive me to the bus stop as I don't fancy trundling my suitcase all the way to the main road. I will get the bus to Stourbridge, then the train from Stourbridge Town to the Junction and then go to Worcester. Easier really than going to Birmingham.
The paperwork is coming on slowly. My printer isn't doing a good job as I have bought some cheap ink and it shows.
Had a bit of trouble talking to Ammar today. He got onto MSN but it wasn't working, then we tried skype but not much better so he changed computer and that did the trick although he couldn't see me. The best bit of news is that his kidney stone came out this morning. Hooray! Now he won't be getting the awful pain that he has to go to get an injection for. He showed it to me and it looked quite big.
Seems there is snow near Midelt. There is a way for him to get to Marrakech that doesn't involve going through Ourzazate, as that road to Marrakech must be full of snow. He can go to Beni Mellal.
Yes I found the cow blanket pic. You can see why we called it that. I also got a nice duvet type thing called a cuette (not sure of the spelling) which kept us warm in Meknes. I have to be warm where ever I go.
I am just going to check Ryanair and download my boarding card.
Done it and put away in my little black purse. I forgot that you have to enter details about your passport onto the online checkin. But its all been done now.
Ammar has seen Tricky (my lovely Moroccan cat) but she didn't want him to touch her. I hope she will be friendly with me again. Maybe she is pregnant - this will be the third time. I think I will get her some dry food in Marrakech as you can't buy it in the south.
There is nothing really to indicate whether or not my flight will be cancelled. Its too early to tell - just over a week and 2 days to go.I have asked Paul to drive me to the bus stop as I don't fancy trundling my suitcase all the way to the main road. I will get the bus to Stourbridge, then the train from Stourbridge Town to the Junction and then go to Worcester. Easier really than going to Birmingham.
Monday 4 January 2010
Getting the hang of blogging
I just put a picture up here but I didn't want to post it until I had written something. So here is the something. The photo was taken when I was leaving Marrakech last summer on the Ryanair flight to Luton.
I wonder what new rules there will be at airports. I have never left from Bristol to Marrackech but going from Luton I had to remember to empty out all liquids and creams from my hand luggage. Last time I even had to remove the belt from my trousers. They let me keep my shoes on.
In Marrakech there are separate queues for men and women. You get frisked at the end by a police woman. This doesn't bother me. Now there is talk about the new sort of body scanners that let everyone who is checking see exactly what you are like under the clothes. Not a pretty sight. But anything that stops these people who want to kill planefuls of souls. I am reading a book about Islam to try to understand why this is happening. Its called 'The Crisis of Islam Holy War and Unholy Terror' by Bernard Lewis.
A. says that these people are not Muslims. The whole interplay of the so called 'West' and the countries of Islam that have been inhabited by people from 'western' countries is difficult to grasp. I only know that I have got a better understanding of the Muslim world since meeting Ammar and all my friends in Morocco, since meeting some lovely guys from Gaza and hearing their terrible stories and since finding my Egyptian cousin two years ago and actually getting to meet her.
Time to get back to the documents.
Sunday 3 January 2010
Getting ready
I have two weeks before I go to Morocco for the 11th time. My aim this time is to help Ammar get a visa to the UK. I am in the process of assembling documents that will be needed there. What a palava!! I am putting them into a labelled folder just so that its easy to access them. I am doing photocopies too as the Moroccans are hot on those. Well actually I'm scanning the docs and then printing them. I'm basically lazy and would rather do anything at home if I can.
This afternoon I went out to buy some bubbles for his nieces and nephews. It makes a change from balloons and there were some jazzy looking containers in the Early Learning Centre. I would love to buy the children more things but I can only take so much on the plane. This time I will also amuse them with my butcher bird toy that I got from Brisbane. It makes the call of the bird when its pressed and its such a lovely sound.
My flight is booked on Ryanair. I am taking off from Bristol for a change. I usually go to Luton to get my Ryanair flight. Bristol is so much more convenient and the plane leaves at a sensible hour. The one from Luton always left at 6.30 a.m. and I always felt half drugged getting it. I will also be able to get on the train to Bristol which I will take in two stages as it is cheaper. First I go from Stourbridge Town to Worcester and then change for Bristol.
I have also booked a night at one of the Bristol Ibis hotels, It cost £27 which is a real bargain. Can't remember the cost of my return flight but it was pretty decent. I'm sure it was less than £100. Ammar will be coming to meet me at Marrakech and then we will either take an overnight bus or stay in Marrakech and go the next day.
This time I will not take a handbag just a small backpack. I have had enough of lugging my large backpack round. I will try my best to travel light with my suitcase too. I have a few clothes stashed away in Merzouga now. I am going for my usual six weeks and hope to go to the net every day to add to this blog. Meanwhile I am going to search for a good photo to add.
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